BRAKE PEDAL PUSHROD REMOVAL PROBLEM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 115
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From: stockport Cheshire
BRAKE PEDAL PUSHROD REMOVAL PROBLEM.
I an trying to convert my car to power brakes, I think I know the process from looking on the archives. My problem is that as I understand it the brake pedal push rod on the power brake buster is to be located in the lower hole on the brake pedal which currently holds the brake light switch bracket, so I have to swap them over. What I can't do is get the pin that holds the push rod to the pedal off as there isn't enough clearance to the side for it to pull out to release the rod. If anyone can understand this and offer any help I would be most greatful.
Mark......
Mark......
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,102
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From: spring city pa
Re: BRAKE PEDAL PUSHROD REMOVAL PROBLEM. (British Mark)
Remove the master cylinder bolts , this will allow you to push the brake pedal forward in its travel and give you the room you need !
geo
geo
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: BRAKE PEDAL PUSHROD REMOVAL PROBLEM. (British Mark)
That clip on the side of the clevis pin is a bitxh. First you can't get your hand in there and then you don't know which way to move the clip. Just a small flat screw driver and push or pull on it while working the small screw driver in the clip and it will suddenly pop off. Or look at it with a mirror until you get the idea how it works. I have done them a few times and with the aid of a small screwdriver you can get it.
Putting it back on later doesn't seem to get any easier.
It is doable.
Putting it back on later doesn't seem to get any easier.
It is doable.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 173
Likes: 1
From: Warren MI
Re: BRAKE PEDAL PUSHROD REMOVAL PROBLEM. (norvalwilhelm)
If you have power steering, we offer the easiest and simplest, and most powerful power brake conversion system ever! Our billet aluminum firewall adapter bolts directly to the existing master cylinder studs and also utilizes the 2 bolts found a little bit lower for a super strong mounting. The pedal rod connection is a quick and easy endeavor, using the original mounting points! You may in some cases have to lengthen the brakes lines with any power brake conversion as it puts the master cylinder further away from the firewall. :cool:
Some key benefits are:
-NO CUTTING OR DRILLING!!!! :nono:
-firewall mounting is performed under hood, the only "underdash diving" is to connect and adjust the final pedal height to suit you tastes (super easy as compared to wrestling with the four vac assist mounting studs under the dash, inside of the vehicle)
-super strong and smooth brake assist actions regardless of engine vacuum or speed
-very trick in appearance, with the billet aluminum firewall adapter, gold anodized accumulator bottle, and the braided stainless ps lineset
-much more room for tall valve covers
-works with either the original manual master cylinder or can be swapped out for power brake spec master for slightly "tighter" pedal feel
-much easier to change the plugs in that area now
:flag
Some key benefits are:
-NO CUTTING OR DRILLING!!!! :nono:
-firewall mounting is performed under hood, the only "underdash diving" is to connect and adjust the final pedal height to suit you tastes (super easy as compared to wrestling with the four vac assist mounting studs under the dash, inside of the vehicle)
-super strong and smooth brake assist actions regardless of engine vacuum or speed
-very trick in appearance, with the billet aluminum firewall adapter, gold anodized accumulator bottle, and the braided stainless ps lineset
-much more room for tall valve covers
-works with either the original manual master cylinder or can be swapped out for power brake spec master for slightly "tighter" pedal feel
-much easier to change the plugs in that area now
:flag
