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I got a set of Moog 232 U-joints that are grease-able and when I opened the box the bulge in the center was not drilled and tapped. I'm going WTF then I see one of the caps is drilled and tapped and there is a tiny push type grease fitting. How are you supposed to use that?
You use a needle greaser. Plug it into the end of your grease gun and the push the needle end into the grease zerk on the bearing cap.
I put a set in my 74 and have beat the snot out of them with a 383 and a 327. As an aside, I broke the 383 a few years ago, so....
Yes. The lubed for life/ non-greaseable are stronger.
Do you need them ? Depends on the maintenance and abuse you are accustomed to giving a vehicle.
Good luckJeff
You use a needle greaser. Plug it into the end of your grease gun and the push the needle end into the grease zerk on the bearing cap.
I put a set in my 74 and have beat the snot out of them with a 383 and a 327. As an aside, I broke the 383 a few years ago, so....
Yes. The lubed for life/ non-greaseable are stronger.
Do you need them ? Depends on the maintenance and abuse you are accustomed to giving a vehicle.
Good luckJeff
I just didn't care for the grease fitting to be in one cap so I'm returning them and getting solid ones. Don't need the strength with a puny 350 with maybe 180 hp but I'll work on that this winter.
I got a set of Moog 232 U-joints that are grease-able and when I opened the box the bulge in the center was not drilled and tapped. I'm going WTF then I see one of the caps is drilled and tapped and there is a tiny push type grease fitting. How are you supposed to use that?
JT
I realize you're returning this joint, But For Future Reference ---
This joint IS cross-drilled. Simply drive the zerk into the cap or screw it into the cap
Then grease it as you would any other joint.
Sometimes it can be very difficult to access the center-cross zerk; this configuration w/zerk in cap is always accessible.
I have over 400 horsepower I have the solid ones primarily because I run drag radials so other things beside power levels come into play.. I wouldn't return this just because you need a fitting for your grease gun. Now we need billet steel. U joints!🤔
Here is a USA made NAPA u-joint from 40 years ago. It came out of my car, with about 10k miles on it. The car was never abused, drag raced, launched, or shifted over 4k rpm. The joint snapped in half shifting getting on the highway from 2nd to 3rd gear at 3k RPM. I never went back with any zerk joint. Solid only- which can be broken with abuse- we did that too.
Here is a USA made NAPA u-joint from 40 years ago. It came out of my car, with about 10k miles on it. The car was never abused, drag raced, launched, or shifted over 4k rpm. The joint snapped in half shifting getting on the highway from 2nd to 3rd gear at 3k RPM. I never went back with any zerk joint. Solid only- which can be broken with abuse- we did that too.
Just a thought: I wonder if some joints' X bodies are made of cast Iron Or if some are cast Steel Or if some are Forged Steel ? I don't Know; and had not given it any thought, until now. The busted X body pictured above looks as though it might have been a casting ? I don't know.
Moog 232
