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I will be replacing the body mounts on my 72 coupe during the frame swap. The car will be used exclusively for car shows and Sunday cruises. What is your opinion on using the 73+ bushings versus the 72 bushings?
i put them on my 69 many years ago and they raised the body up ~1/2 inch. Exposed my side exhaust mufflers worse and misaligned the steering column/rag joint/steering box plane.
I’m putting in C2 mounts that are only slightly thicker than the aluminum pucks.
i put them on my 69 many years ago and they raised the body up ~1/2 inch. Exposed my side exhaust mufflers worse and misaligned the steering column/rag joint/steering box plane.
I’m putting in C2 mounts that are only slightly thicker than the aluminum pucks.
Blair’s sells a kit for 64 and another kit for 65-67. Which one are you using?
Thanks for the C2 suggestion.
Regarding body mounts, there are a lot of differences between the C2 years and between the coupe and convertible (coupes did not use the #2). The kit I have is the 65-67 Coupe and only has hardware for six mounts but I see Bair’s sells a #4 mount kit for $32 so I will be ordering that as well.
I would just save yourself any extra work and use the correct body mounts for your 72. I mean it doesn't sound like you are going to be driving it much and I have driven quite a few C3's with the different mounts and I can't tell the difference in ride quality any way. I used the aluminum on my 69 body off and couldn't be happier.
Hello,
Originally the frame was placed in a large 'jig'.
A tool was used to determine how many shims were required to bring the frame mounts to a certain dimension.
The photo of the upside-down frame is from the 63-67 era.
At this point it wasn't known what body this frame was going under.
I'm not sure if there was an oppurtunity to adjust the shim count after the body was lowered on to the chassis.
Regards.....
While knowing the number of shims that were initially installed during production at each mount point is a good thing, I would not be concerned if you don’t have that data, especially after you are replacing the aluminum pucks with the C2 rubber style.
Start the process by ensuring the frame is level fore-aft and side-to-side. Place a couple of shims on the #2 and 3 pads and position the cushions in the body. Place the cushions on the #1 and 4 mounts and place a couple of shims on them. Lower the body as evenly as possible until one of the #2 or #3 positions make first contact. Observe the gaps on the other 7 positions, particularly the #4s if you have a convertible. Continue to lower the body until full weight is on the frame. Check the body level fore-aft and side-to-side at this point. Check your door gaps at this point. From this point on it will be an iterative process to determine how many more/less shims are needed to achieve a level body/frame relationship and proper door gaps. The #4 locations should impart no undue stress vertically on the body. For example, if you find that, after removing both the originally placed #4 shims, you observe you need more gap, you’ll need to add additional shims at the #2 (and #3) locations. Don’t be concerned if you have to tweak the shim quantities several times. Keep track of your observations as you progress so you don’t fall into a cyclic loop. Good luck!
While knowing the number of shims that were initially installed during production at each mount point is a good thing, I would not be concerned if you don’t have that data, especially after you are replacing the aluminum pucks with the C2 rubber style.
Start the process by ensuring the frame is level fore-aft and side-to-side. Place a couple of shims on the #2 and 3 pads and position the cushions in the body. Place the cushions on the #1 and 4 mounts and place a couple of shims on them. Lower the body as evenly as possible until one of the #2 or #3 positions make first contact. Observe the gaps on the other 7 positions, particularly the #4s if you have a convertible. Continue to lower the body until full weight is on the frame. Check the body level fore-aft and side-to-side at this point. Check your door gaps at this point. From this point on it will be an iterative process to determine how many more/less shims are needed to achieve a level body/frame relationship and proper door gaps. The #4 locations should impart no undue stress vertically on the body. For example, if you find that, after removing both the originally placed #4 shims, you observe you need more gap, you’ll need to add additional shims at the #2 (and #3) locations. Don’t be concerned if you have to tweak the shim quantities several times. Keep track of your observations as you progress so you don’t fall into a cyclic loop. Good luck!
Great advice. I appreciate your knowledge. Thank you.
Replacing Body Mounts
