It's an idle stop solenoid. You should be able to increase its length by 'unscrewing' the hex headed plunger.

I'm not sure about 1979 models, but it's possible (likely) that it's what is used to adjust the idle speed. The hex head end of the plunger pushes against the throttle lever, and screwing the plunger in or out changes the throttle position, and thus the idle speed.

Also (again, not certain about 79s), with the ignition on, the solenoid is energized, and the plunger is extended. When the ignition is off, the solenoid is de-energized and the plunger will retract. On earlier models, this feature helped reduce engine 'dieseling', or run-on.

For a '79, I don't know if or how it's connected to the AC compressor circuit, although I do recall reading that on some earlier models, yes, the solenoid will energize and increase the idle speed to compensate the the extra load placed on the engine by the compressor.

 

I disabled the thermal actuators (I prevent them from closing with screws), plugged the vacuum lines and replaced the thermal sensors in the intake and water inlet with pipe thread plugs/sealant. MUCH cleaner look and I get continuous flow into the air filter. I also removed all EGR plumbing, capped my vintage Hedman 68301 air injector piping, removed the air injector pump, rejetted (Lars) the carb and had a speed shop recurve the distributor decades ago. The engine came alive with all of this. I still have the functioning PCV, filter in air cleaner with crankcase vent pipe and Evap plumbing from PCV.

 

posting in the wanted section of the C3 may get you your parts missing.
nice mostly original car with cruise!
assume automatic as the manual does not have the solenoid. Not sure u can get cruise with manual ?
i would consider getting a clutch fan and replacing the flex fan, that alone will gain power..some also go electric.
link for clutch fan education and pics of a 79 l82.. which i think same air cleaner as you have by 79.
fan education link.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-79-l82-4.html
electrical diagram for 79 in detail
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-in-color.html
i also suggest getting the factory service manual.. link here for best ones
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...omparison.html

you cannot post too many pics.. suggest a thread for each issue you need help with. great looking car! can't wait to see the progress..
you can rebuild your car 100% with people on this forum.

 

The part that goes over the radiator is not reproduced. You will need to find one of those on eBay, or this Forum, or Facebook, or whatever.

The other parts, including the two accordion ducts, and the duct along the passenger side, are reproduced, and can be purchased from Corvette vendors like Zip Corvette.

@interpon did a great job restoring his to original. You can also delete everything but the main ducts, remove the flapper valves, seal the extra holes, and maximize cold air at all times. Since your Quadrajet has not way of knowing what the temperature is of the incoming air, and no way to adjust, this is best done for EFI applications, or if you only drive your car when it's warm outside.

Here's some experimental data for you from @interpon 's thread.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...l82-4m-ac.html

 

Look at the emissions sticker, driver's side, near the hood latch. It explains how you are to adjust the idle solenoid.

 

Unless things have changed, you should be able to register it as antique. Then no inspection is needed either.

 

Great Pics, interpon, of the OEM dual snorkel cold air intake with the proper connectors for feeding cold air into the engine.

I still have the OEM setup on my L-82, as well. You need the flexible connections to the air snorkel intakes to properly feed cold air into the engine, otherwise it will perform just like any other open air cleaner, breathing heated air from the engine.

Quick refresher on the 77-80 L-82 engine identifiers-L-82's should have the Finned aluminum valve covers, NOT the stamped steel GM passenger car Blue painted valve covers. This part could be replaced easily to make an L-48 base engine look like an L-82

L-82 engines will also have a unique tachometer in the console that will redline at 6,000 RPM, except 78 AC L-82 cars only @ 5,600 RPM-not sure if only the 4 speed L-82 AC cars had the 5,600 RPM redline tachs because of the higher potential for buyers to rev it to redline. GM was concerned about 6,000 RPMs for the 78 L-82 AC car's new R4 compressor, originally, but abandoned the L-82 AC 5,600 RPM restriction for all 1979 L-82's, going back to 6,000 RPM for all L-82's, including the L-82's with AC . The L-48 redline is slightly less than 5,500 RPMs, 5,300 RPM to be exact on the tach.

Also, ONLY the L-82 tach has in the lower 1/3 center of the tachometer, just below the pin for the tach needle, the script L-82. The tach identifiers are easier to spot since someone is less likely to change the tach, trying to mimic an L-82. Still can be done but a lot more work for little recognition!

 

Wow. Great pics interpon. And thanks. I found this car online up in N.Y. and for the price and the work his uncle had done on it I couldn't pass it up. So went up and hauled it back. interpon, is that some kind of distributor cap cover you have on there?

 

That's the factory AM radio interference cover.

 

Few things I see...
The style of air cleaner used on your 79 is called a Thermostatic Air Cleaner or TAC for short...
Inside the air cleaner there should be a (if original a green switch) or white if it was replaced at some point..
That switch is your TAC vacuum switch and has 2 ports.
One port receives manifold vacuum from the rear of the throttle plate base nipple, the other port goes to both vacuum operated actuators at the front of the air cleaner. These actuators are also sometimes called Vacuum Motors...
If working correctly, on a cold start both actuator doors will close.
Now you are drawing into the air cleaner pre heated heat via heat stove and pipe shown in post #8...
As the temp inside the air cleaner get warmer, the TAC valve starts a controlled vacuum leak, yes a controlled vacuum leak...
In this diagram they are calling the TAC vacuum valve the Air Bleed Valve...
This is how and when the actuator doors (Damper Assm) should start opening depending what the air temperature inside air cleaner is...


The Lt.Green wire where I put the Red arrow should have a single locking style connector, that lands at the Idle Stop Solenoid...
As you may have noticed, on Interpon immaculate engine compartment photos ( I hate Him lol ) there is NO Lt.Green wire, his 79 has a manual transmission so no Solenoid...
Anytime you select NORM or MAX A/C the solenoid should energize. Give the pedal a tap and RPMS should increase... Follow emissions sticker recommendations for correct RPM speed...

 

Everyone.....thanks for all the responses. I'm definitely learning a lot here. I'm new to this site and am very grateful for all the help I'm receiving here. I'm glad I found this site. Thanks again!!!!!

 

the smaller damper revs quicker than the larger one. Lotsa CT racers run the little 327 damper that weighs just under 5 lbs; about 6" or a little less.
Both accelerates & decelerates more quickly; not unlike a lighter flywheel/clutchpak. More responsive to throttle.

 

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