Working on the main input wiring from the starter solenoid to the fuse panel. The fuse link is corroded and is now broken, so no power getting to the fuse panel. It is the fuse link down by the solenoid. Rather than replacing the fuse link, I was thinking about replacing it with a self resetting circuit breaker. But I need to know how much amperage the circuit carries. I’m thinking either a 20 or 30 amp breaker would do the job. Any ideas?

 

That's a really, really bad idea. Circuit breakers trip when they get hot. Their is a ton of heat in that area. Making that breaker trip without cause. Leaving you on the side of the road.
The original engineers got it right. Replace the fuseable link correctly. Or perhaps a slow burn strip fuse.

 

Oh, and think. The Stock factory alternator is 65 amps. And most replacements are higher. Plus headlight loads plus..... And you think a 30 amp breaker is the go???

 

I do believe the circuit breaker could be installed far enough away from the exhaust for heat not to be a factor. I normally do not like changing things for stock but the problem with fuse links is they are not easy to repair on the road. circuit breakers would allow time to get the car to a save spot.

 

A fusible link, fuse and/or circuit breaker is designed to JUST protect the wire from melting-
What temp the wire gauge is rated at is what size you would fuse it-

BTW - just about all new cars use FUSES rather than fusible links- as they are a lot more serviceable.-
I highly recommencement staying away for cheap Chinese made fuse holders- as in a lot of cases they plastic will not handle heat... look at Delphi now called Aptiv brand

 

Thanks to those who offered suggestions. I suggested a 30 amp circuit breaker as it would be easier to get off the road with a circuit breaker than the fuse link. The original fuse link was 14 gauge, the wiring is 10 gauge so rated for 30 amps.. Even though I usually would want to replace things with original, I feel there might be a better alterative today. I have decided to replace the fuse link with a new style spade type in-line fuse holder and start with a 30 amp fuse. That way if it blows, repairs can be made on the side of the road. The original fuse link did not blow, but moisture got in and the fuse link corroded and broke. again thanks to all,

 

Few people know that. At Cape Canaveral, our satellite was undergoing pre-flight checks. Then a fuse blew. All hell broke out...... at the corporate level the problem immediately was seen as who to blame. The company that made the black box that was the load for the fuse blamed the satellite manufacturer for using too small of a fuse. The satellite manufacturer had an employee whose specialty was specifying fuses/circuit breakers and he flew to the Cape for a meeting to discuss the issue. He was adamant that the size of the fuse had nothing to do directly with the current needs of the load. The primary function of the fuse was to protect the wiring harness. If the black box maker had need for some current limiting feature, they had to add it in their box. His fuse was only to protect the harness once a wire size was chosen.

 

I am not sure I would trust my Corvette to a "auto-resetting circuit breaker" even though they are used elsewhere on the C3's for minor rolls like headlights. I instead am using marine (boat) grade circuit breakers that are protected from both water and dust. The breaker I have at my battery protects the entire system and is a 150 amp breaker as I have a Gear drive starter that pulls very low current to crank my 427 over. I also have a fuse protecting the alternator which is rated at 105 amps maximum so I have it protected by a 100 amp fuse mounted on the firewall between the alternator output and the battery post on the starter motor.

I suggest that you use a "popular" common type of fuse in case you break down somewhere and they don't have the fuse you need. Being paranoid, I keep spare fuses in the car with me for that "just in case" moment. There is little worse than blowing a fuse on a highway trip and not being able to easily find the fuse replacement, for this I carry the spares. I also keep spares for the fusible links in my garage as you never know when you will need one. I bought mine from Amazon but NAPA carries them as well.

Remember to always solder the fusible links into your electrical system. The marine grade circuit breakers are nice, inexpensive and can be opened easily by pushing a small button to open the breaker allowing the car to be completely shut down. You can find the marine breakers on Amazon.

 

I agree, a fuse is only there to protect the wiring. Since the original circuit is made up of both 12 and 10 gauge wire, an in-line ATC style fuse holder should work with a 30 or 40 amp fuse. The alternator is a 37 amp unit. The original fuse link was a 14 gauge fuse link, so I should be ok and would be easy to fix if it blows on the road. I have decided my original idea of the circuity breaker is not a good one. An ATCV style fuse like most of the today's cars use should work and not be too much of a change.