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Not necessarily. If all your front suspensions components have been replaced and your still experiencing a loose, darty steering feeling at speed, chances are you need to increase the caster. You'll need at least 4* of positive caster to eliminate the loose, darty feeling. What are your current alignment specs?
Looks pretty delaminated and "squishy" to me; I'd replace it if it were on my car. You can test it by having someone turn the steering wheel in opposite directions while you watch the joint -- any movement of the steering shaft that doesn't immediately transfer to the steering box input indicates a rag joint in need of replacement.
I will get the print out from the shop that did it. Theyre closed today for Christmas as i was at work when my car was brought to me lol as for replacing it, I just ordered a new one and will replace it asap. Thank for the replies
Be careful with replacement rag joints. The quality of the aftermarket joints is iffy at best. Perhaps contact GTR1999 regarding rag joints. He's the guru regarding steering gears, rag joints, rear diffs and trailing arms.
Be careful with replacement rag joints. The quality of the aftermarket joints is iffy at best. Perhaps contact GTR1999 regarding rag joints. He's the guru regarding steering gears, rag joints, rear diffs and trailing arms.
Thank you. Got one from ecklers so should be a good replacement
Good on ya. Back in the day, many years ago Ecklers was a great source. The older gentleman that started and ran the business I believe passed on. I do know the business was sold to one of the corporations. It just isn't the same.
As Sunflower stated above. Good quality rag joints are extremely hard to come by nowadays. Best of luck to you.
That rag joint is bad. It is supposed to be a flat, rigid, laminated material. The original Saginaw and Corvette Steering rags were so much better than what is sold today. That is a D-Flat box and some of the new rags, (Chinese), have the D-Flat off 180*. They are solid rubber pucks and typically not grounded. I would run a u-joint over the rubber pucks sold today. NOS rags come up for sale from between $200-$400 today but they're the best. However, some sold on ebay are sold by people who don't know the difference between the original USA made rags and the imported service rags sold the last year of availability. Many vendors no longer build or make anything, they are middlemen. When Ralph owned the business, it was quality and they made body parts, those days are over.
The box most likely needs attention as well. If the grease hasn't turned into an acidic sludge, you might be able to save the gears. Pumping in new grease in an old worn box is pretty much useless as well.
That rag joint is bad. It is supposed to be a flat, rigid, laminated material. The original Saginaw and Corvette Steering rags were so much better than what is sold today. That is a D-Flat box and some of the new rags, (Chinese), have the D-Flat off 180*. They are solid rubber pucks and typically not grounded. I would run a u-joint over the rubber pucks sold today. NOS rags come up for sale from between $200-$400 today but they're the best. However, some sold on ebay are sold by people who don't know the difference between the original USA made rags and the imported service rags sold the last year of availability. Many vendors no longer build or make anything, they are middlemen. When Ralph owned the business, it was quality and they made body parts, those days are over.
The box most likely needs attention as well. If the grease hasn't turned into an acidic sludge, you might be able to save the gears. Pumping in new grease in an old worn box is pretty much useless as well.
The coupler and box are my main attention at the moment since the front end work just got done as the steering wheel needs to be held to the left a bit more to stay straight so hopefully fixing the coupler/box (possibly) will correct it. Do you have any recommendations for a good ujoint?
I believe Flaming River makes the joint for about $100?
Your box shows potential adjustment is left but it won't account for lost preload and any acidic corrosion to the bearings and ball screw
I believe Flaming River makes the joint for about $100?
Your box shows potential adjustment is left but it won't account for lost preload and any acidic corrosion to the bearings and ball screw
Flaming River is the U-joint to use. I have one in both C3s, including the one that has a steering box rebuilt by @GTR1999
I'll throw my own experience into the rag-joint decision. When replacing my '72's joint this past summer I went with a new over-the-counter rubber puck. My car doesn't get much mileage and isn't judged, so going with a $100-$400 solution seemed extravagant. The rubber puck I installed maintains electrical continuity through the joint so it's good with that function. It probably won't last anywhere near as long as the factory rag but it is loads better than the torn rag it replaced.
(I did pick up a used joint a couple months later from the forum but haven't installed it yet -- and it may end up in the parts box that goes to the next owner.)