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I've gone way deeper into the interior of the car as I am re-dyeing all interior panels with excellent results (I'll post photos later...). Of course, with 50 year old cars, you can anticipate coming across multiple previous owner 'fixes' and it seems that my neutral safety switch has been bypassed by a PO. I am assuming that the object (resistor??) wired into the circuit is spliced into where the wires had once gone to the switch? I am missing the rod/retainers to the switch, but that is available.
I am going to pull down the pedal assembly to get to the switch to test it as the PO might have bypassed it rather than replacing a faulty switch. Any thoughts on where I'm going wrong?
Thanks!
Bob
That's not a resistor., it's a noise suppression capacitor for the radio. Are you sure it's not connected to the brake switch?
Your profile only shows a 96, you may want to add your 71 to help answer your questions.
it seems that my neutral safety switch has been bypassed by a PO. I am assuming that the object (resistor??) wired into the circuit is spliced into where the wires had once gone to the switch?
Bob
That is the plug for the "stop lamp" switch (brake lights) not the neutral safety switch plug.
The "cylinder" spliced into the wires is a capacitor which reduces AM radio pop when the brake pedal is pressed.
The neutral safety switch for your 4sp vehicle would be a tan/brown plug on a purple & purple w/white tracer wiring.
If you look carefully at his picture, I see three pedals, 4 speed, your picture is for an automatic. His terminology, neutral safety switch is misleading.
Yep. you're right. it is a capacitor that was spliced into the brake pedal circuit. Now removed.
So far not seeing neutral safety switch leads as yet. Hoping they haven't been cut.
Originally Posted by Hammerhead Fred
That is the plug for the "stop lamp" switch (brake lights) not the neutral safety switch plug.
The "cylinder" spliced into the wires is a capacitor which reduces AM radio pop when the brake pedal is pressed.
The neutral safety switch for your 4sp vehicle would be a tan/brown plug on a purple & purple w/white tracer wiring.
If you are correct and the PO bypassed the clutch switch, then look for the original switch at the clutch pedal.
The reverse lights go on with the shifter in reverse, and the backup switch is connected to the transmission.
The switch is really hard to see and even more of a pain to get to. Unless you have experience as a contortionist for a circus. It may be a good idea to remove the drivers seat, use a phone camera and take some photos to see if the safety switch wires still exist. Post your car’s model year so that someone can tell you the wire colors that you need. Good luck!
It's a '71 convertible. I have the steering column removed and the full dashboard as part of a full redye of all interior panels. I plan on pulling the pedal box tomorrow for access to the switch and replacing the rod/bushings. Then I need to find the leads hopefully tucked up somewhere. I'm gearing towards and NCRS restoration of the car, so being correct is important.
As for the switch, its there to prevent the car from starting in any gear aside from neutral from what I've read. If the switch was disconnected and not knowing how a PO bypassed it, I've got issues to solve. A forum member dropped me a PM and mentioned that in the day, people would replace the switch with a toggle to serve as an anti-theft device.
It's a '71 convertible. I have the steering column removed and the full dashboard as part of a full redye of all interior panels. I plan on pulling the pedal box tomorrow for access to the switch and replacing the rod/bushings. Then I need to find the leads hopefully tucked up somewhere. I'm gearing towards and NCRS restoration of the car, so being correct is important.
As for the switch, its there to prevent the car from starting in any gear aside from neutral from what I've read. If the switch was disconnected and not knowing how a PO bypassed it, I've got issues to solve. A forum member dropped me a PM and mentioned that in the day, people would replace the switch with a toggle to serve as an anti-theft device.
Can you confirm whether you have an automatic or a manual transmission. There is a big difference in the function between a neutral safety switch in an automatic and a clutch pedal safety switch in a manual.
It's a '71 convertible.
As for the switch, its there to prevent the car from starting in any gear aside from neutral from what I've read.
Not quite: it prevents engine start with the clutch engaged. It has nothing to do with which gear the the shifter is positioned.
The engine will start in any gear shift position so long as the clutch pedal is depressed/disengaged.
I have found the leads and the connector had a jumper on it to bypass the switch. I also removed the pedal box and steering/pedal box mount to not only access the switch and test it, but also to refinish the pieces. (File under: 'I'm in this deep...why stop now?'). The switch tested fine so it seems that a PO disliked the idea of pressing the clutch prior to starting; not sure why as it's good practice to depress the clutch for a number of reasons. Replacement rod/bushings/clips are ordered from Zip.
I bead blasted and refinished the mounts, using Eastwood's Detail Grey on the mount and Seymour Stainless Steel on the column mount and stiffening struts.
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Neutral Safety Switch Bypass?
