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Doing my first tranny pull (with the body on and the engine NOT coming out!) for my totally stock '72 with M20. My quick question is; do I have to remove the stock shifter and mounting bracket from the frame to allow the M20 to come back far enough for the front input shaft to clear the back of the bell housing? Why couldn't GM put a removeable crossmember in the 4 speed cars like they do the autos!! Just to save a couple bucks?
I’m not sure you can get the transmission out of a manual frame car without pulling the engine.
I could be wrong, but I believe that’s why all the guys convert their crossmembers to a removable crossmember the first time they need to remove the transmission.
Pull the distributor cap off so it won't hit the firewall. Remove the driveshaft and shifter then raise the rear of the trans enough to remove the rear mount. Support the engine with the trans just off the crossmember and remove the 4 bolts that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Start pulling the trans back and roll it so it will go back in the tunnel.
When it gets clear of the bellhousing drop it down in the front and out. You may have to drop the engine down in the back to get the input shaft to clear the bellhousing- that's why the distributor cap comes off.
on a 79 i did not remove engine and have a fixed crossmember.. the shifter mounts different than yours though and i did remove that.
my removal here.
watch your teeth when that tranny (and clutch plate) comes off..on my back..top tip for me was to use alignment bolts when assembling.
thread here https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-etc-diy.html
Why couldn't GM put a removeable crossmember in the 4 speed cars like they do the autos!! Just to save a couple bucks?
I bet they felt a welded in crossmember made the chassis stiffer. BTW I did a clutch on a early C3 a long time ago. I don't remember how I did it other than not having to remove the engine or the body.
Thanks for all the input. I will try rolling the transmission which will likely help. Why didn't I think of that! Mine is on a 4 post lift with lots of room to manuever so my teeth are safe.
I've had mine out twice, on jackstands in a tiny garage. Engine in place.
yes you need to remove the shifter and the shifter mounting bracket. Once you have the trans as far back as possible, tilt the engine so the front is up, rear down. That's why you want to remove ignition shielding and the distributor cap. This tilting of the engine gives you just enough room to clear the mainshaft past the bell housing. Then down and out.
yes rotating the trans a bit help get it all the way back.
No, all of us do not cut up our frames.
I did mine like this a couple of times. It works fairly well.
Then when I went to install a Richmond ROD 6-speed so I cut my crossmember and made it removable.
Lots better.
Then when I went to put in a much bulkier 200-4R I made my own crossmember where the exhaust passes under instead of THROUGH the crossmember.
Much, much, better...... and easier to route the exhaust and you can make it straighter too.
Originally Posted by 4-vettes
I've had mine out twice, on jackstands in a tiny garage. Engine in place.
yes you need to remove the shifter and the shifter mounting bracket. Once you have the trans as far back as possible, tilt the engine so the front is up, rear down. That's why you want to remove ignition shielding and the distributor cap. This tilting of the engine gives you just enough room to clear the mainshaft past the bell housing. Then down and out.
yes rotating the trans a bit help get it all the way back.
No, all of us do not cut up our frames.
It's out, with the help of my son, because two sets of hands made it much easier to handle above out heads. The final step that I needed to get it done was to remove the shifter frame bracket by removing the two 3/8 bolts that hold it to the shifter. I did NOT remove the shifter assembly and shift rods, leaving them to hang there with the rods tied off to the drivers side of the car. I also did not lower the back of the engine, although it was tight and I will try that step when it is time to put it back as I expect it to go a little easier with the bell housing lowered somewhat. I have to get the flywheel turned/ground to ensure it is flat so it will be a little while before I put everything back.
Worth mentioning is inserting four bolts into the bellhousing to help guide the tranny back in. You want a smooth shank with the heads cut off and a slot cut into the end so you can easily remove the bolts with a screwdriver.
Worth mentioning is inserting four bolts into the bellhousing to help guide the tranny back in. You want a smooth shank with the heads cut off and a slot cut into the end so you can easily remove the bolts with a screwdriver.
Thanks Greg. I used to do this job by myself. And there was no Corvette Forum! Had to think up lots of tricks to get things done. But plenty of others here seem to know something like this.
The crazy thing is Chevy seems to have made the clearances just barely possible with the fixed crossmember. And if you can get it out, you can get it in.
Glad you got it out. Years ago my son helped me get my tranny out and in on my 68. Do a thorough inspection of the starter wheel. If suspect, replace it. They are inexpensive and easy to replace on a workbench. Jerry
Funny, I just did this yesterday with my son for muscle. Dropping the rear of the engine really helps and is actually included in the factory manual. Additionally, I cobbled together a chain and turnbuckle anchored to the front of the engine and the front swaybar to support the engine until I'm ready to put the car back on the lift for installation.
I've had mine out twice, on jackstands in a tiny garage. ......................No, all of us do not cut up our frames.
Most don't but some do.
Notice the welded-on flanges. The transmission you can see, well the output shaft!, is a Tremac 5 speed. These were custom made flanges. Someone sells these flanges on the internet for $99. For sure my worst shady-tree mechanic story is laying on my back trying to insert a transmission input shaft into the clutch assembly (engine in) Triumph TR-3. Anything that makes a transmission removal easier is something I'll do. Hence my removable cross shafts.
Excuse the rusty headers and sidepipe exhaust seen in the photo. I'm in the process of replacing this all with 304 Stainless Steel.
Transmission removal question
