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Comment on related topic. I bought an additional distributor cap. In my case it was an HEI cap. I took a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel disk installed, and cut a window in the cap above the number 1 cylinder/sparkplug wire connector. This allows me to see that the distributor rotor is immediately above the number 1 spark plug terminal.
Yup, handy trick
for those so inclined, clear, see-thru caps are available. Not my choice; fugly.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Jan 24, 2026 at 05:31 PM.
Why can't you turn it over so the damper and tab align, remove the distributor cap, it will be pointing at 1 or 6. If its number 1 it will be pointing in the forward direction, if number 6, the rearward direction. You should be able to determine which terminal in the cap aligns with the rotor
I’ve never thought of doing it that way, but it makes perfect sense!
I guess I always fall back to the way I learned how to do things.
just in case, on BBC cyl #1 Intake rocker is Driver side, Second rocker from front.
Remove Driver VC
While closely observing #1 Intake rocker, And All While you roll (clockwise) damper over.
Immediately After #1 Intake closes, the instant the Zero Groove arrives t TDC mark, that is #1 TDC
* Waay back, during HS, I rode a '49 pan to school. I learned back then, how to set both its point gap and ign timing Very close w/ no more than a matchbook, a cellophane cig pack wrapper, a crescent and a screwdriver. Oh well, Sometimes, seeing the forest for the trees is easier said than done.
I agree but there are other easier methods that don’t include removing the VC and making more work that is necessary.
just in case, on BBC cyl #1 Intake rocker is Driver side, Second rocker from front.
Remove Driver VC
While closely observing #1 Intake rocker, And All While you roll (clockwise) damper over.
Immediately After #1 Intake closes, the instant the Zero Groove arrives t TDC mark, that is #1 TDC ....
Originally Posted by OldCarBum
I agree but there are other easier methods that don’t include removing the VC and making more work that is necessary.
Perhaps even easier, would've been to have verified TDC Before heads (& intake) were installed; as well as qualifying damper's markings.
Perhaps even easier, would've been to have verified TDC Before heads (& intake) were installed; as well as qualifying damper's markings.
So you should read this thread from the first post.
The engine recently came back from the dyno shop.
They used my distributor, set everything, and used their plug wires.
So when I brought the engine home I had no idea where the engine stopped in reference to number one cylinder top dead center on the compression stoke.
The MSD distributor cap does not identify what post the number one plug wire plugs into.
So I simply need to turn the engine over so the number one cylinder piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke so I can correctly install the plug wires.
This has nothing to do with the engine assembly.
The other thing you missed by not reading this thread is that I am just looking for an easy way to rotate the engine and set the engine number one piston at top dead center on the compression stroke.
Since there are no wiring harnesses, battery, or battery cables installed in the car, just bumping the starter with the ignition key isn’t and option.
Rotating the engine using the crank tool isn’t an option because the harmonic balancer and crank pulley are installed.
So thanks to the helpful suggestions of other member I ordered the remote starter tool, will connect the necessary wiring and turn the engine over using the starter and battery power.
Thanks for your help.
So you should read this thread from the first post.
The engine recently came back from the dyno shop.
They used my distributor, set everything, and used their plug wires.
So when I brought the engine home I had no idea where the engine stopped in reference to number one cylinder top dead center on the compression stoke.
The MSD distributor cap does not identify what post the number one plug wire plugs into.
So I simply need to turn the engine over so the number one cylinder piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke so I can correctly install the plug wires.
This has nothing to do with the engine assembly.
The other thing you missed by not reading this thread is that I am just looking for an easy way to rotate the engine and set the engine number one piston at top dead center on the compression stroke.
Since there are no wiring harnesses, battery, or battery cables installed in the car, just bumping the starter with the ignition key isn’t and option.
Rotating the engine using the crank tool isn’t an option because the harmonic balancer and crank pulley are installed.
So thanks to the helpful suggestions of other member I ordered the remote starter tool, will connect the necessary wiring and turn the engine over using the starter and battery power.
Thanks for your help.
You can't turn the engine with a 6 point socket on the crank bolt with no plugs installed?
So you should read this thread from the first post.
The engine recently came back from the dyno shop.
They used my distributor, set everything, and used their plug wires.
So when I brought the engine home I had no idea where the engine stopped in reference to number one cylinder top dead center on the compression stoke.
The MSD distributor cap does not identify what post the number one plug wire plugs into.
So I simply need to turn the engine over so the number one cylinder piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke so I can correctly install the plug wires.
This has nothing to do with the engine assembly.
The other thing you missed by not reading this thread is that I am just looking for an easy way to rotate the engine and set the engine number one piston at top dead center on the compression stroke.
Since there are no wiring harnesses, battery, or battery cables installed in the car, just bumping the starter with the ignition key isn’t and option.
Rotating the engine using the crank tool isn’t an option because the harmonic balancer and crank pulley are installed.
So thanks to the helpful suggestions of other member I ordered the remote starter tool, will connect the necessary wiring and turn the engine over using the starter and battery power.
Thanks for your help.
I had already read it from p1 Before I ever commented. I missed nothing; not one complaint-whine.
You made a similar erroneous accusation soon after I registered.
Apparently someone else bolted your heads to your block; motor's builder, I suppose. Glad for ya, that you're finally gonna have a remote starter on hand.
I showed you a pic of an alternative tool for turning damper (+crank) while damper on snout. Heck, you could screw three bolts into damper and use a long screwdriver to turn it as well.
Do you recall your 'warm n princely' welcome to me; soon after I registered ? I do.
Good luck w/ your project.
Why? Just use the timing marks and get on with it. Look at the rockers if you need to verify #1 TDC Firing position.
I used a wooden dowel and could feel when the piston was at TDC and it's very accurate due to the ratio of how much is inside the fulcrum point vs how much is outside. The timing marks didn't line up so I knew the harmonic balancer was shot and the outer ring had slipped. So you can't trust the timing marks on a 44-58 year old car.
I used a wooden dowel and could feel when the piston was at TDC and it's very accurate due to the ratio of how much is inside the fulcrum point vs how much is outside. The timing marks didn't line up so I knew the harmonic balancer was shot and the outer ring had slipped. So you can't trust the timing marks on a 44-58 year old car.
JT
He stated he has a new damper somewhere in this thread.
OCB
I have both the 3 bolt to the crank tool pictured in post #12 and the starter bump tool.
I have used both and I much prefer the crank tool.
It is slower and more precise. Easier to get exact alignment.
That is why I thought you might like it too.
I also like the wood dowel method mentioned as well.
I made line marks with a sharpie and it worked extremely well for finding TDC, if unsure.
Not that you need that in your case.
I know everyone has made great suggestions here trying to help.
I only asked originally because I was looking for easy ways to turn the engine over without disassembling anything.
In the past I have used the crank bolt with the plugs removed and a finger in the spark plug hole which has always worked great and gotten me close enough to tdc to do what ever I needed to do.
I installed an ARP crank bolt in the snout so I’m not concerned about breaking a bolt, however over the years this method has become frowned upon so I was trying to find a better, safer and more widely approved method.
I apologize if I got a little upset in my earlier post.
I just can’t stand those who always want to point their finger at someone and indicate that something wasn’t done correctly when they know nothing about what or how it was done.
Thanks to everyone for their helpful contributions!
Greg
With all the plugs out except the number one you would feel when its coming up on compression. With number one only screwed in a thread or two you would hear when its coming up. Unless the distributor has been out since the Dyno you could always ask them where the number one was on the Cap. I have always put the number one with the Rotor facing the #1 cylinder which is the most common. That is till I delt with C2 Corvettes where it probably faces the #2. And when the SBC first came out it could face a lot of different directions depending on the car. Figuring it out yourself like you are doing is always the safest.
With all the plugs out except the number one you would feel when it’s coming up on compression. With number one only screwed in a thread or two you would hear when it’s coming up. Unless the distributor has been out since the Dyno you could always ask them where the number one was on the Cap. I have always put the number one with the Rotor facing the #1 cylinder which is the most common. That is till I delt with C2 Corvettes where it probably faces the #2. And when the SBC first came out it could face a lot of different directions depending on the car. Figuring it out yourself like you are doing is always the safest.
Great suggestion, I’ve never thought of leaving in the #1 plug with only a couple threads.
The distributor hasn’t been removed and I did look at the distributor cap to see if maybe they did mark it in some way.
They did not.
I was in the room when the last dyno run was completed and they didn’t set the number one cylinder to tdc.
They probably just stabbed it in and let #1 wire fall where ever it ended up. #1 can be any position on the distributor and it will run great along as the wires are in the correct firing order and its timed right.
We usually try to put #1 at about 5:00 but it can function anywhere.
Yup, very handy and you don't have to worry about rounding off the crank bolt or worse. You can also turn the engine in both directions if needed. To verify TDC I pop the valve cover off. Don't use that remote start button if you have a piston stop in there.
Thanks!
With using the remote starter button I’ll find tdc by just bumping the engine with my finger over the number one spark plug hole.
I’ve been busy cutting and installing the new Thermo Tech Supressor Cool It Mat on the interior firewall over the last few days.
It’s time consuming but I have it all covered and I hope to have all the seams taped off today.
Next up is installing the new battery, make and install the new battery cables, then I’ll be able to use the remote starter and get the plug wires made up and properly installed.
Thanks again for all the help everyone!
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
You don't have the crank bolt installed, sorry I just skimmed this thread. I have 11:1 compression and when I stab the dist I have all spark plugs installed and the valve covers off. I turn it over by hand using the crank bolt and a long ratchet.
I look at the #6 rockers and when one rocker is closing and the other is opening I watch to see when they are both are exactly equal. They are now in overlap and #1 piston will be at TDC. Try it, it works, it basically has to.
I just got done finding TDC on my '70 for the first time when deciding to replace my distributor. Since I end up doing much of this work by myself, I bought one of the TDC Whistles previously mentioned. It was awesome! Screwed right into the #1 plug hole. As I hand-turned the crank, it gave a short "false" whistle on the exhaust stroke, but then a much longer and louder whistle on the compression stroke. Immediately as soon as the whistling stopped, I checked and it was dead-on 0 degrees on the balancer. Great tool when working alone.
After removing the fan, I was able to turn the crank by hand with a standard ratchet and socket (5/8 I think). Yes, it was hard! Especially with the AC belt in the way, fan shroud, and no other plugs removed... I will probably look at a different method next time I have to do this.
I didn't have much luck with one of the TDC tools. They were brass and no matter how gentle I tried to be they got bent. I ended up using a pencil, which would not damage the piston. As for turning the crank, I used this socket. Can't remember where I got it but it uses they key on the crank and a 1/2" drive breaker bar.
I know I'm late to the party but pencil is what I was going to suggest.
