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Hello. My question has to do with the correct sequence in bleeding the brakes. I believe it is RR, RL, FR and then Fl. My question is about the two bleeds on the rear, the inner and outer. Which do you bleed first, or does it make a difference. Thanks in advance.
Definitely inner then outter. Bleeding typically starts with fartherest from the master cylinder. Honestly doesn't matter though. Believe the "correct procedure" is just more efficient regarding waste. Seem to recall others posting tech sheets saying to start with driver side..
With my Motive Bleeder hooked up to my air compressor, I'm bleeding front and rear at the same time
Brake bleeding starts with the position farthest away from the master cylinder, then progressively working closer so your sequence of RR, LR, RF, LF is correct. On the rears, be sure to bleed the inner caliper halves first.
My shop manual explicitly says do the left side first, which is the opposite of the other GM vehicles in the book. I have no idea why, and if you follow the lines the right side is obviously longer.
Brake bleeding starts with the position farthest away from the master cylinder, then progressively working closer so your sequence of RR, LR, RF, LF is correct. On the rears, be sure to bleed the inner caliper halves first.
The only way this makes any sense to me is that a side that has already been bled has an air bubble from the other side being bled that floats into the already bled side, and stays there. Looking at my AIM, the rear brass block that connects both sides is at the highest point on the frame. The air won't go downhill from there to someplace you don't want it to be. The front appears the same, the brass connector (so called proportioning valve) is at the highest point in that section.
Maybe that makes sense for the caliper halves, maybe not, I haven't thought about that.
Crack open all 4 corners and crack open a beer. To be safe, I would start with the inner on the rear and finish with outer later on.
Gravity bleeding is effective on C3 as long as your brake system is healthy. If your master cylinder is messed up or your proportioning valve is tripped... gravity bleeding won't work.
IF you have to bleed your brakes there is a better and faster way to do it. AIR does not like to go down in a tube of liquid. Knowing this I use a Phoenix Reverse Bleeding Pump. The Phoenix system hand pump pushes the fluid (and AIR) UP to the master cylinder and out of the system.
You put a small bowl under the master cylinder and then you simply push new fluid up into the master cylinder. I use a turkey baster to remove the excess brake fluid to prevent damage to the paint. While bleeding the system I strongly suggest that people tap on the brass fittings, blocks and unions with a small mallet or something. The tapping will help the air bubbles get free of the metal tubing or whatever they are attached to.
Using the Phoenix one person can bleed the entire car's brake system. It also removes the air really well.... I have used it on Corvettes, Boats, Motorcycles, lawn equipment and even aircraft. This is one useful tool that can save you a lot of time. The end result is a brake system free of any air and a hard brake peddle.
Last edited by ctmccloskey; Feb 11, 2026 at 08:02 AM.