I was wondering if anyone has used the offset shafts from Global West?

 

I'm running Moog offset shafts. Which we also slotted for more caster. Good inexpensive mod.

 

I watched the video on those offset shaft , makes sense to go with them, I wish they had them 35 years ago while working at a body shop doing alignments on vettes with bent frames.

 

They seem pretty decent and everyone’s prices are similar. Thanks

 

slugs are common in oval track racing chassis. They fit into elongated/slotted holes and have a bolt hole located in several specs.
check either
Port City Chassis at Muskegon MI or
Port City Race Cars at Mooresville NC or
Circle Track Supply at Statesville NC

 

I'm running Moog off set shafts but they are discontinued, I bought a new set for my black 1980 and by the time I wanted to order a set for my white 1980 they were discontinued but was able to get a set of used Moog offset shafts from Van Steel so it's good to know you can still get them new

 

Since it is a bit of a chore to find the part numbers, and even their website is kinda vague, I'll post the links here.

SPC Performance makes adjustable UCAs for our cars. I have two sets of the "race" version (which has delrin bushings that must be lubed periodically). Street price is about $600- for the pair, from Summit, Amazon, eBay, or wherever you can get a part number match.

They bolt right on, and you don't have to rebuild anything. I was able to get 6 degrees of caster in my 80.

Race style, SPC 92740
https://www.spcalignment.com/product/92740

Street style, SPC 84360
https://www.spcalignment.com/product/94360

 

That's what we're talking about here. HUGE difference in cost between all new A arms and offset shafts.
Same results.
Us poor people and or just thrifty people really like saving over 500 dollars.

 

I took my shafts to my local machine shop and elongated the holes. I recall being charged $75.

 

Well, if you're going to insist on saving the OP some money...

Offset arms from Zip, $80- each.
https://www.zip-corvette.com/63-82-u...et-design.html
Energy Suspension front control arm bushing set (Amazon Links)
Red 3.3108R or Black 3.3108G $80-
The tool to install the bushings
Powerbuilt UCA Bushing Service tool, 648604 $90-

So perhaps a $300- savings over the (adjustable) SPC solution. A bit more if you use rubber bushings. But you'll still need to use shims.

Here's a video showing how to do it.

 

I didn't watch the video. I never do. I didn't know I had to buy a special tool. I've done my control arm bushings twice now over the years. Didn't purchase anything special.
New bushings , well yes of course.
Zip Corvette is the place to purchase control arm shafts? I'm thinking one can do better price wise.
And yes, even if you only saved 300 dollars, thats 300 dollars I can use to buy food! I'm big on eating.

 

I have that tool. I also have the Global West offset control arm shafts. Just so you know, the tool is pretty good but it does not really work on the lower control arm bushings. The Global West offset shafts are much beefier than those scrawny cast iron offset shafts. Not much more money. I plan on using the stock replacement rubber bushings. I will try to post something later once I get them installed.

 

I purchased the Global West ones and since I want to replace the ball joints I figured to do everything and make a complete set to just swap out when I’m ready..

Global West shafts
Moog Ball Joints and Rubber Bushings
2 New to me “after I clean and paint “upper control arms from (CorvetteBen) for $30 each

 

Now that I have the offset shafts, does anyone think I should get them slotted because I guess I jumped the gun on my purchase. I really don’t have a problem with camber. I just don’t know if I can get the amount of caster with the shims. How much do I slot them? What’s a good positive caster? I saw 6 degrees caster posted somewhere.

 

Now that I have the offset shafts, does anyone think I should get them slotted because I guess I jumped the gun on my purchase. I really don’t have a problem with camber. I just don’t know if I can get the amount of caster with the shims. How much do I slot them? What’s a good positive caster? I saw 6 degrees caster posted somewhere.

 

JMO - Start off by seeing where you are first.

First, set camber at zero. Then, see how much caster you can get while still holding camber in check. Move the shims from the front spot to the back spot to max out both drivers side and passenger side for caster while holding camber at zero. Move the whole stack if you can, but the camber needs to stay at zero. Camber moves the wheel in-out by adding or subtracting 2 equal thickness shims at the same time on the one shaft. One front shim one back shim - to maintain camber. The limit is when you have zero shims in the forward position but still have zero camber. Then reduce the caster for the higher caster side so it matches the other lower caster side that is already at max. This is pulling a shim out of the high stack and reinstalling it at the lower stack until you are equal caster on both left and right sides of the car. Adjust camber as required with equal shims (add or subtract, if any left) Now you should have caster maxed out for what you have available and camber set to zero. Double check the settings and tighten the fasteners.

Set the toe and drive it.

The modified arms cut slots will allow even more caster, but try it with the existing holes first to see if that is good enough for you is my advice.

 

If you just have the shafts, but haven't built the A-Arms yet, I'd get them modified now, or return them and get modified shafts. Or SPC UCAs, and save a bunch of effort.