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1969 350. New Edelbrock aluminum heads, DeWitts radiator, aluminum water pump.
I want to fill the system with distilled water for the 30 minute cam break in then drain it. There's probably still a little original coolant in there plus I'd rather find any leaks with water not antifreeze.
I've seen references to water pump lube and am wondering if its relevant here. I suspect it isn't but if so maybe someone could suggest a product. I am leery of all additives - especially ones that go in my brand new thousand dollar radiator.
For the little use it will get without any lubricants I would not worry about hurting anything in the radiator. If you are really worried then get a bottle of REDLINE's Water Wetter which has a lubricant in it.
Using a Stewart Water Pump I literally used Reverse Osmosis water for years and had no troubles with the pump or the radiator. The only additive ever put in was the Water Wetter and that was months after the water was installed.
I understand your concerns but think that you will be fine just running it with pure water.
Thanks - I always wondered what Water Wetter was for. I'm just going to run distilled water, it's cheap and safe.
While its formula does also serve as a lube, WW's primary Purpose is to aide heat transfer between hard surfaces and liquid. And, it works well for both needs.
FWIW,: Most pavement tracks' published rules-mandates absolutely prohibit any "antifreeze" because AF is slicker than eel snot-difficult to clean away, and when a wreck occurs and the typical busted radiator ensues; any AF-laced coolant causes everyone else to spin and wreck. Violations usually result in sanctions. Depending on track, that might range from a Points loss to a track Ban to an azz-whoopin' or all of the above. As a result (and in Most regions), race motors require some means of winterization.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Mar 28, 2026 at 08:54 AM.
Ah. I see. I'm going to trainwreck engine by running it a half hour on distilled water then dumping it and putting in the correct antifreeze. I can easily go get some water wetter, sounds harmless, its cheap, readily available so what the hell why not.
By three more posts in this thread I'll be advised to do an LS swap,
Ah. I see. I'm going to trainwreck engine by running it a half hour on distilled water then dumping it and putting in the correct antifreeze. I can easily go get some water wetter, sounds harmless, its cheap, readily available so what the hell why not.
By three more posts in this thread I'll be advised to do an LS swap,
I didn't comment that you Need WW; not here.
Break-in for a half-hour on straight water ain't gonna do squat
But, if you leave straight water in it, It Will Rust and make a fn mess.
If, after you complete your half-hour break-in, you then refill it w/ AF & DIH2O; it'll be fine as frog hair with No Need for WW.
OTOH, if the innards of your block, heads, intake & rad are badly fouled with rust, scale, schmutz, sediment etc; all the tea in china or WW ain't gonna fix that. In fact, THE ONLY in situ FIX (in-frame) for that is the Oxalic Acid-Sodium Carbonate regime detailed in that 25 year old GM Dexcool TSB.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Mar 28, 2026 at 03:27 PM.
No water pump lube needed. The bearings in the pump are permanently lubed, sealed and don't interact with the coolant. The pump has a mechanical seal that is lubed and cooled by the coolant and separates the bearing from the coolant. Water is fine for what you are doing. I have seen water pump lube swell hoses. JP