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the Passenger side power window went down no problem but when I went to put it up nothing. When I push the button you can see the lights dim a little like the switch is drawing power. I took to door panel off and removed the plate to reveal the motor. I used a test light that I tested first to make sure it worked. LOL. I don't
seem to be getting power to the connection at the motor. I know there is no way to manually move the window with out . I haven't tried bumping the motor via an outside battery yet. it started to rain and I needed to move her inside. any suggestions would be great. will try bumping the motor tomorrow if it's not raining.
Next pull the side of the console off so you can access the wiring on the bottom of the switch. With your test light again. Test that you are getting power out of the switch. If you are and it's not making it all the way to the motor in the door. You have a broken wire. If not. A bad switch. Switches are known to fail. Also make certain that connector is firmly pushed up onto the switch.
Had this problem a long time ago. It was both switches. Wilcox had a video showing how to repair these switches. Not sure if those are still available.
I bought some chinesium switches that lasted about a year. Junk. Got some used switches that are still working. I think all GM cars used the same switch.
Next pull the side of the console off so you can access the wiring on the bottom of the switch. With your test light again. Test that you are getting power out of the switch. If you are and it's not making it all the way to the motor in the door. You have a broken wire. If not. A bad switch. Switches are known to fail. Also make certain that connector is firmly pushed up onto the switch.
Originally Posted by biackbenz
Had this problem a long time ago. It was both switches. Wilcox had a video showing how to repair these switches. Not sure if those are still available.
I bought some chinesium switches that lasted about a year. Junk. Got some used switches that are still working. I think all GM cars used the same switch.
Well I pulled to console access side panel off and tested the switch and it was giving me power. then tested it right as it went thru the body to the door at that connection.,had power there also. Pulled the door panel off and disconnected the motor then tried to activate it with a battery. All it did was spark as I was making the connection. tried both ways with the positive and negative to see it it would go up or down. I'm wondering if mayme it jammed when I rolled it all the way down. I'm pretty mechanical inclined and can usually tear anything down and put it back together. not real sure tackling a window is in my realm of things though. going to look at some youtube videos and see how much trouble it is to remove the motor is before making a decision to let a professional do it that can make sure everything is lined up correctly.
On my '72, I removed the motors from the doors without any problems, just 3 bolts each. The weight of the window on the regulator spring kept everything together and in place. Pull the motor, disassemble, and rebuild it. They aren't difficult to do and if worst comes to worse, replace it.
As long as you're in there, make sure the motor mounts to the regulators haven't got broken welds. This is a very common occurrence with the weight of the motor and forces on the welds when the doors are swung shut. A telltale sign of broken welds is a clunking sound when the doors are closed. Both of my regulators had to be removed for the mounts to be tig-welded - that's a whole other thing, removing the regulators!
On my '72, I removed the motors from the doors without any problems, just 3 bolts each. The weight of the window on the regulator spring kept everything together and in place. Pull the motor, disassemble, and rebuild it. They aren't difficult to do and if worst comes to worse, replace it.
As long as you're in there, make sure the motor mounts to the regulators haven't got broken welds. This is a very common occurrence with the weight of the motor and forces on the welds when the doors are swung shut. A telltale sign of broken welds is a clunking sound when the doors are closed. Both of my regulators had to be removed for the mounts to be tig-welded - that's a whole other thing, removing the regulators!
yea I'm in the process of removing the motor. the problem is the window is in the down position and the room is pretty small to get to things. I have two bolts removed at 1/32 or a turn at a time.
I had to order a long 7/16" open ended wrench to get to the furthest one. that is coming in today. I would have unbolted the mechanism to slide it some but Chevrolet decided to rivet things into place on this model. the video I watched from a guy with a 74 they were bolteded in.
one would think that the motor Mfg would have made things so that if the motor failed you could remove that little cover at the motor end and put a hex key in there and manually roll it up.
Well I got the motor out with the window in the down position. only problem is not that is it out it was not the motor that was the problem. evidently the mechanism as in a bind, the motor works just fine on the bench. took a little engineering to get to the last bolt but I made it happen. Had to go thru the top of the door. the regulator being riveted in is a major PIA.
power window not working
