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Perhaps it’s flooded? You can try cranking it with the throttle held wide open to see if it will fire off.
When you removed and reinstalled the distributor it undoubtedly changed your ignition timing. Once you’ve gotten it idling I would procure a dial back timing light to check what yours is set to.
So how did you correctly reinstall the distributor if you didn't mark anything?
Did you determine cylinder 1 TDC and then install the distributor with the rotor pointing to cylinder 1 wire in the distributor cap?
So how did you correctly reinstall the distributor if you didn't mark anything?
Did you determine cylinder 1 TDC and then install the distributor with the rotor pointing to cylinder 1 wire in the distributor cap?
I did not do any of that. Going to guess you are telling me I should have. I just put it back the same direction it was before and it dropped right in.
I did not do any of that. Going to guess you are telling me I should have. I just put it back the same direction it was before and it dropped right in.
Same direction means you could be off a little and that will prevent the car from starting..
Send an email to Lars Grimsrud, v8fastcars@msn.com and ask for his document on installing a distributor.
Same direction means you could be off a little and that will prevent the car from starting..
Send an email to Lars Grimsrud, v8fastcars@msn.com and ask for his document on installing a distributor.
Get his Timing papers, too. You'll need them for the next step.
If you still have the GM cast iron manifold and distributor, look for chisel marks on the intake hole and distributor flange. Some engines have them, some don't. If they're there, rotate the housing to align the two marks and you'll be at GM's recommended timing.
If you still have the GM cast iron manifold and distributor, look for chisel marks on the intake hole and distributor flange. Some engines have them, some don't. If they're there, rotate the housing to align the two marks and you'll be at GM's recommended timing.
You are assuming the rotor is in the correct position, it could be anywhere.
I then left it at TDC and the distributor pointed at cylinder 1, but I am confused out how to get it align. If I crank it to drop it in, like in the video, I wouldnt that move the crank off of TDC?
I then left it at TDC and the distributor pointed at cylinder 1, but I am confused out how to get it align. If I crank it to drop it in, like in the video, I wouldnt that move the crank off of TDC?
*update*.
I think I have it aligned.
You didn't email Lars to get his document on installing a distributor?
That looks like the rotor is pointing at the #1 position.
Now keep in mind that the rotor turns in a clockwise direction, mark the “1 post on the distributor cap and check your plug wires.
First, are you sure that the TDC mark is with #1 cylinder on the compression stroke? The mark comes around 2 times for a single full cycle: TDC compression and TDC exhaust. If #1 is on exhaust stroke (intake valve closed, exhaust valve open), then #6 is on compression stroke (both valves closed) and vice versa. You can't move forward on this unless you are positive both #1 valves are closed. You can do this by feeling for building pressure at the spark plug hole or pulling off the driver's valve cover.
Next, get Lars' paper on "walking" the distributor rotor around to the proper position. You can't do this by rotating the engine, because, you're right that it will change where you are in the 4-stroke cycle. What you're really doing is moving the oil pump shaft in small increments so that the bottom of the distributor meshes with it where you want the rotor pointing.
Lastly, it doesn't matter that the rotor is pointing in the physical direction of the #1 cylinder. What does matter is that the rotor is pointing to where the #1 spark plug wire is located on the distributor cap. Not to add to confusion, but the rotor could be pointing at the firewall and be OK as long as that's where the #1 plug wire is connected.
One more thing, if you are going to try static timing to help ensure it at least kicks off when you try to start it, be aware your timing tab marks are in 2° increments. Setting it to 8° is a good starting point to get it to run.
If you closely there are no points, there is a shutter wheel under the rotor which uses a different set of attachment hardware.
Perhaps his current distributor in contributing to his problems? I never liked the aftermarket "electronic conversions" for GM points distributors. And I'm aware some people swear by them.
