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This thread is very timely for me. I’m getting ready to buy a BP 350/341 long block to install in my 72 C3. I had planned to install the BP 350/390 but was concerned by the vacuum and idle rpms. I plan on using most of the accessories from my old engine including the Quadrajet carb, Edelbrock Performer intake manifold. Does anyone know if the old style intake manifold will bolt to the BP heads? The BP literature says it has both bolt patterns. I will give BP a call. Thanks for everyone’s expertise.
As @Fly skids up! pointed out the old manifold may not fit, I would get a new vortec manifold and I did get a new vortec manifold for my BP350CT
I think I'll cover up the BluePrint with a sign that says FingerPrint!
Although the heads are dual pattern the Vortec style ports won't match up. I put Vortec intake manifold gasket up against a 86 Corvette TPI intake and it was a no go.
Thanks. I’ll add a new intake manifold to the list.
If you are going to just purchase a short block so you can use the intake and other parts you already have, then you might be better off finding a good sbc bare block or a complete running sbc and get it rebuilt.
That way you can completely taylor the engine build with top quality components that will perfectly fulfill your needs.
Sbc blocks and complete running engines are available for practically nothing.
FWIW
I kinda-sorta liken BPE's accessory parts business model to those of popular office printer makers' "consumables" biz.
Pricewise, You can really get boinked when compared to being well-informed & carefully choosing third-party suppliers.
Maybe you could put together a parts list and costs of a few different engines such as cost of block or used engine to be used for a rebuild and all the components, gaskets, etc needed to complete the project like I did for the 4 BPE engines. That way everyone will have a good idea of the differences of costs between the BPE and DIY engines. Keep in mind that not everyone knows all the technical things about engines. What if someone where to build an engine and use the wrong harmonic balancer type or flexplate type because they didn't know the difference and then can't figure out why the engine seems to sound wrong or out of balance. the wrong flexplate won't fit on the crank if it's the wrong type but the harmonic balancer will fit correct or not. Those are the kinds of things that most people can benefit from by purchasing a BPE engine (or other well known engine builder) which is piece of mind. Even someone that rebuilt engines 40 years ago will need to learn a lot more today to build a good reliable engine. I'm sure OldCarBum you know how to build a good engine but here is the eye-opener......not everyone knows what you know and mistakes would be made.
I was told by a veteran of the old days of drag racing to install a 400 block in my 1970 C3. I couldn't afford his work but valued his input. BPEngines had just introduced the new 400 block so I bought it. Yet to fire it up but I'm certain it will perform well. Its dyno are 473HP and 512 lbs of TQ.
Here's it cousin today.
GM SMALL BLOCK COMPATIBLE 400 C.I. ENGINE - 500 HORSEPOWER - BASE DRESSED - FUEL INJECTED
This explanation (Kevin LD post #27) ^^^^^^ was exactly why I opted for a hybrid build with me sourcing most of the new parts (Howards Roller cam/ AFR 180 64 CC heads) and my engine builder/tuner (great guy BTW), handling the various parts like JE Forged racing Pistons, new Balancer, Clutch kit, etc. I pulled the engine in my garage with help from forum member Karol and my builder picked the engine up from my house to perform the machine work (reconditioning the L-82 forged Crank, reconditioning the L-82 forged rods, bearing ARP bolts, Balanced the flywheel to the engine etc). Builder essentially provided the short block assembly and I did the heads, cam, L-82 aluminum intake, top end, etc and the reinstall into the car) with many of the parts on the car before the engine rebuild/upgrade. All in, for everything, parts from me and the builder, builder short block assembly labor, my labor for the top end and final assembly, using new and older parts, the reinstall with initial startup/breakin was about $5,000 back in 2014. The cost was about the same for a generic crate engine including BP 383's but with superior parts like the JE forged racing pistons and the AFR eliminator heads, making not only more power and TQ but in a much more street usable rpm range. Turned out simply, MEGA!
We are all so AMERICAN. Americans don't like accepting only one thing with no options. Here there are so many options; build your own with the parts you chose, or you might want the option of buying a ready designed engine from a builder like BPE. They are all options, and as for me, our individual attitudes and choices are a good American thing. I appreciate guys like jb-78-L82, caskiguy, gjohnson, OldCarBum and others. I understand that this site has guys like OldCarBum that can help the people that want the option of building their own engine and how fulfilling that can be. I also understand those who don't wont to or don't have the tools or garage to build one so they buy engines like what BPE offers.There are many guys like OldCarBum on this site that can and are willing to help people which is also commendable and invaluable to the members. I say do what you can or wish to do and don't let anyone stop you.
I like the single source package because I'm not a engine expert. By ordering a complete engine you know all the parts will work together, be compatible, and none of that this part doesn't work/fit with that nonsense that's seems to be the story of my life. You also know that you are getting a proven combination. A complete package usually save you some money too and buying everything separately.
I'm like you Fly skids up! Not because I can't build one myself because I certainly can. It's because of lack of time to do it and that I would rather be enjoying a drive or car show etc than sourcing all the parts and assembling everything. If I did it myself, I would be tempted to build one with a steel crank and have it balanced and blueprinted etc which would drive the cost way up. But instead, I'll settle for a single source package like you are doing and then will enjoy life in my vett.
I'm like you Fly skids up! Not because I can't build one myself because I certainly can. It's because of lack of time to do it and that I would rather be enjoying a drive or car show etc than sourcing all the parts and assembling everything. If I did it myself, I would be tempted to build one with a steel crank and have it balanced and blueprinted etc which would drive the cost way up. But instead, I'll settle for a single source package like you are doing and then will enjoy life in my vett.
Curious
OK, so you certainly can build your own motor, but choose not to. Fair enough.
But, if you did choose to DIY build your own small block chevy, and had it blueprinted; would you tell us exactly what that blueprinting entails ?
For me I gave serious thought about several possible ways to "fix" my engine. I've built a few sbc's back in the day when you didn't have too many choices for parts so with a build a small block chevy book and a few tools I was empowered to build a few.
Options I considered:
Rebuild the OEM motor with either new heads or rebuild the heads and new cam and lifters, a lot of time and end up with a 2 bolt main 2 part rear seal motor with flat tappet cam, so no.
Find a Vortec motor and rebuild that, way too much time just looking for an engine and too many uncertainties about the condition of a used motor.
Find a LS motor and rebuild that (didn't think long on that one), didn't want to mess with an EMC I spent several weeks removing the Cease Fire ECM and wiring from the 82
Buy a block and have the local machine shop hone it to fit the pistons, I talked to the local machine shop and while possible too much time spent trying to sort out all the parts.
Get a long block that has been run on the dyno so I know it runs and all I have to do is source the accessories for the long block. This is the choice I made and I'm 3 weeks into getting the Blueprint ready to install soon, mostly waiting on parts as I figure out what I need. And shipping from Summit was 2 days!
If I was younger and had a lot of time to work on building/rebuilding and engine I might have made a different choice.
I've only had two engines balanced and blueprinted but I'll try and remember what was done but I'm sure there are other things.
1. line bored
2. Block decked parallel to crank
3. Make sure everything is to exact tolerances
4. Rods the same weight
5. Pistons the same weight
6.Everything weighted and balanced
7. Match pistons with cylinders
8. Torque plate the block/cylinders before honing
9. Complete head workup springs, valves, CC chambers etc
I'm not a machinist so I'm sure there are other things not mentioned above.
Basicly take pains to make sure everything matches before anything is assembled.
Any other questions to feel me out or are we good now?