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Timing should be 12 btc for a baseline with vacuum advance not connected and line plugged .
What distributor do you have? HEI or other. If an ignition problem, this is typical of an HEI ignition module failing especially after the engine gets to temperature and distributor gets hot.
Assuming your 4 at idle and 25 at 2K is with the vacuum advance unplugged you have a 21 degree swing of mechanical advance. Meaning to get a proper spec of 36 total you’ll want to set your timing at idle to 15, again, with the VA unplugged. 2K is also far too low to have all of your mechanical timing all in. I would add heavier springs until it’s all in at 2,800-3,000 RPM. Unless you have 11:1+ of compression you should not be running into pre ignition issues with this setup.
Last edited by Piersonpie; Apr 16, 2026 at 01:58 PM.
Assuming your 4 at idle and 25 at 2K is with the vacuum advance unplugged you have a 21 degree swing of mechanical advance. Meaning to get a proper spec of 36 total you’ll want to set your timing at idle to 15, again, with the VA unplugged. 2K is also far too low to have all of your mechanical timing all in. I would add heavier springs until it’s all in at 2,800-3,000 RPM. Unless you have 11:1+ of compression you should not be running into pre ignition issues with this setup.
Timing should be 12 btc for a baseline with vacuum advance not connected and line plugged .
What distributor do you have? HEI or other. If an ignition problem, this is typical of an HEI ignition module failing especially after the engine gets to temperature and distributor gets hot.
It's an Edelborck HEI distributor........the stock OEM distributor was replaced with carb, and intake.
I have been having the vacuum advanced plugged......when I check or set timing. I've tried the 15 degrees BTD to try to get to the 35 all in and it seems as the rpms
go above 2000 to 3000 the carb popping begins........
I'll pull the HEI module.......and replace........any siggestions on a relaible replacement??????????
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Also, valve(s) Not sealing; via bent or burned or Both.
Additionally, perhaps some valve(s) adjusted too tight.
systematic compression checks; both dry & wet can help rule in-rule out.
Maybe time to call in a pro...........find a mechanic whos pay grade is way over my head and skills..
I considered pulling the valve covers and looking for the issue. At my senior age....working on and under my C3 can be considered proof I'm
ready for the guys in white coats. I've learned to stay within my lane and not create even more problems with mistakes and bad ideas.
Maybe time to call in a pro...........find a mechanic whos pay grade is way over my head and skills..
I considered pulling the valve covers and looking for the issue. At my senior age....working on and under my C3 can be considered proof I'm
ready for the guys in white coats. I've learned to stay within my lane and not create even more problems with mistakes and bad ideas.
Cannot see a bent or burned valve by looking under valve cover. It's valves' heads that don't seal against valve seats in combustion chambers; those only seen by pulling head from block. As said, can be tested in situ.
And yes sir, I get that senior thing; daily.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Apr 17, 2026 at 09:30 PM.
My thoughts on pulling the valve cover was just to inspect for a broken spring. I realize it does not help if it's a burnt or stuck valve. I thought the removal of the valve covers would be a good place to start since the timing has been set and reset and a slight noted but soft miss is a telltale sign of something else. I have all new vacuum lines installed, new rubber, even new plastic connector trees etc.
So, I'll chew on the valve cover removal and seeif it's the short path to what may be a long path to repair. I have nothing to lose removing the valve covers.
You can also check the valve lift of each valve with the rocker covers removed. Look at each rocker and see how much it moves. Also lift the rockers to check how loose they are. The lobe will be almost flat to cause your symptoms. JP