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According to the footage, the resistances are all in specs.
The tacho-output is wired.. I hooked up ans oscilloskop to see what signal the distributor outputs.
I expected a more or less well formed squarewave. Frequency changes depending on the rpms. But the output is strange. See attached pics. I don't know if this are normal signals...
So I suspected that the ignition module is not working well.
What module do you recommend for replacing the current one.?
According to the footage, the resistances are all in specs.
The tacho-output is wired.. I hooked up ans oscilloskop to see what signal the distributor outputs.
I expected a more or less well formed squarewave. Frequency changes depending on the rpms. But the output is strange. See attached pics. I don't know if this are normal signals...
So I suspected that the ignition module is not working well.
What module do you recommend for replacing the current one.?
Thanks in advance.
FlashJack
In your previous post I suggested you were missing the external capacitor between the distributor and tachometer, did you look for it? Tach Display
NAPA also sells a cheapie that's not Echlin & foreign made...
So does Standard Ignition aka SMP --- Both middle of the road grade and lower cheapie grade have virtually same Part Number; except the lower grade has a "T" suffix.
For generations of mechanics, Standard's top grade is known as "Blue Streak" (refurb a greasy old genuine GM HEI w/ Blue Streak guts and it'll make ya proud).
FWIW: SMP owns Echlin and BWD as well.
FWIW…Standard/ Eichlin/ Blue Streak electrical and electronic parts are hit or miss now. I do advanced engine/ powertrain diagnostics for over 30 years now. New parts out of the box are 50/50 if they’re gonna work/ calibrated correctly or simply just fit right. To be fair though almost all the brands are this way now. At least when it comes to electrical parts. Now, I only use OEM dealer parts. A little more expensive but I don’t have come backs with OEM parts. Such a shame really. At one time SMP parts were a no brainer, guaranteed repair that would last forever. 🤦
Finally, but I don't know why, the tach works fine.
Ich just took distributor cap off, disconnected all ignition wires, cleaned contact of ignition module, checked grounding, checked BAT an TACH -contacts etc.
Reassembled everything.... > now its ok. Could not determine the root cause... But, if it works -> hands off!
I will keep in mind changing the ignition module, but looks like its not nesessary yet.
I will go for the capacitor, but its on backorder here in germany.
Finally, but I don't know why, the tach works fine.
Ich just took distributor cap off, disconnected all ignition wires, cleaned contact of ignition module, checked grounding, checked BAT an TACH -contacts etc.
Reassembled everything.... > now its ok. Could not determine the root cause... But, if it works -> hands off!
I will keep in mind changing the ignition module, but looks like its not nesessary yet.
I will go for the capacitor, but its on backorder here in germany.
Regards
Flashjack
HEI Ignition Control Module does REQUIRE a smear of Heat Transfer Paste between bottom of Module and its mounting pad at distributor housing.
HTP is Required; Not optional. Without HTP, the Module WILL overheat and WILL fail.
HTP is same product that is used between personal computer CPU and its heat sink.
My factory module lasted over 40 years. When it went south I replaced it with an American made NAPA Echlin brand module.
It even came with a little tube of heat sink compound...
Originally Posted by AKjeff
I just bought one Wed, the box still says made in the USA.
Originally Posted by DWAVette
Yep, the “box” was probably made in the USA!!😁
FYI:
Parent SMP has many global manufacturing facilities, and several manufacturing sites in USA; as well as an active SMP manufacturing plant (ignition) in Upstate region of SC. I did visit it less than one year ago.
FWIW: SMP is a Tier 1 supplier to automotive manufacturers whose plants are also global.
I agree, the box probably was USA; as well as its content.
engine rough in idle, tach displayes too low rpms.
I checked the distributor and measured some resistance which I found on Youtube. wedding florist adelaide
According to the footage, the resistances are all in specs.
The tacho-output is wired.. I hooked up ans oscilloskop to see what signal the distributor outputs.
I expected a more or less well formed squarewave. Frequency changes depending on the rpms. But the output is strange. See attached pics. I don't know if this are normal signals...
So I suspected that the ignition module is not working well.
What module do you recommend for replacing the current one.?
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