Opinions on a solid valve-train, please
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
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From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
Opinions on a solid valve-train, please
Well, I've given up waiting on the E-TEC head engine and going to have Mark at AR build me the canfield head 383. He told me with the solid valve-train that I could pick up another 25hp or so. What are your guy's experiences, likes/dislikes with having solid lifters. He did mention that the downside is adjusting them about every 4K miles.
Isn't adjusting them a pain in the butt?
Isn't adjusting them a pain in the butt?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,041
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From: Wichita, KS
Re: Opinions on a solid valve-train, please (tshort)
I've only been driving 4K per year. It would be a nice winter task for me. I'll find out for sure next winter as I'm currently building up a solid lifter engine.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
Re: Opinions on a solid valve-train, please (tshort)
What's involve in detecting and adjusting solid lifters?
Do you do it on a schedule, like every 4K miles, or only when you hear some kind of a lifter chatter? And when you do adjust, isn't it: rotate the crankshaft so that each valve is completely closed then adjust 3/4 of a turn just past where the rod won't turn in your fingers?
That's not too much work for me, the only part that concerns me is getting the crank shaft in the correct position. So I'm a little afraid I won't adjust them right and screw something up.
Do you do it on a schedule, like every 4K miles, or only when you hear some kind of a lifter chatter? And when you do adjust, isn't it: rotate the crankshaft so that each valve is completely closed then adjust 3/4 of a turn just past where the rod won't turn in your fingers?
That's not too much work for me, the only part that concerns me is getting the crank shaft in the correct position. So I'm a little afraid I won't adjust them right and screw something up.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
Re: Opinions on a solid valve-train, please (tshort)
What's involve in detecting and adjusting solid lifters?
Do you do it on a schedule, like every 4K miles, or only when you hear some kind of a lifter chatter? And when you do adjust, isn't it: rotate the crankshaft so that each valve is completely closed then adjust 3/4 of a turn just past where the rod won't turn in your fingers?
That's not too much work for me, the only part that concerns me is getting the crank shaft in the correct position. So I'm a little afraid I won't adjust them right and screw something up.
Do you do it on a schedule, like every 4K miles, or only when you hear some kind of a lifter chatter? And when you do adjust, isn't it: rotate the crankshaft so that each valve is completely closed then adjust 3/4 of a turn just past where the rod won't turn in your fingers?
That's not too much work for me, the only part that concerns me is getting the crank shaft in the correct position. So I'm a little afraid I won't adjust them right and screw something up.
You have to use a feeler gauge to leave a tiny bit of space (like .030 of an inch or something like that) between the rocker and the push rod. I don't know the exact procedure but I am sure someone will chime in with it. I would like to try a solid lifter came for a tpi set up just to play with it. I think it would give me a cam with a profile closer to a hyd roller. I have a hyd roller set up but would like to try a solid flat tappet system just for the experience plus this cam will only be in my 350 which will probably only be in the car for 2 years maybe less then I will go a 383 with the hyd roller cam I have.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: Opinions on a solid valve-train, please (tshort)
If your going solid roller. spend the extra money and get the Crane stud girdle. The tall locking nuts virtually hold the lifter lash in place. I use the metal insert rubber valve cover gaskets which are like a lifetime deal. The adjustment becomes more of periodic check.
I would never build another motor again with H-Flat cam. I'm just waiting for the Brown truck to deliver my new Comp Cams CustoM Solid roller. I tell you my impressions of how it runs in my 383.
DD2000 gave it some good numbers in my cam and combo. My last solid R cam I drove @20,000 in two years. I drove as far as 1500 miles in one day and just thought it was a wonderful motor.
4500 rpm 449 hp
5000 504
5500 547
6000 570
6500 584
7000 567
7500 544
I have my auto tranny set to shift at 5000 rpm and I can still leave most other cars.
[Modified by gkull, 11:53 AM 3/10/2003]
I would never build another motor again with H-Flat cam. I'm just waiting for the Brown truck to deliver my new Comp Cams CustoM Solid roller. I tell you my impressions of how it runs in my 383.
DD2000 gave it some good numbers in my cam and combo. My last solid R cam I drove @20,000 in two years. I drove as far as 1500 miles in one day and just thought it was a wonderful motor.
4500 rpm 449 hp
5000 504
5500 547
6000 570
6500 584
7000 567
7500 544
I have my auto tranny set to shift at 5000 rpm and I can still leave most other cars.
[Modified by gkull, 11:53 AM 3/10/2003]
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
Re: Opinions on a solid valve-train, please (gkull)
Well I'm going to go with the solid lifters then. But they aren't roller so maybe sometime down the road I could upgrade if I wanted. Do poly-locks work as well as the stud girdles?
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: Opinions on a solid valve-train, please (tshort)
Lt1er. Runs a nice Crane solid cam. You don't get as much extra hp with a solid cam as a roller and you can't put roller lifters on a solid flat cam. The real problem with solid and solid roller is they have a limited selection of truely street friendly versions. So you have to be careful when selecting them to get a balance of duration and lobe center angle. Or you can end up with a radical sounding motor where your light won't open and your brakes don't work. I used to have a cam in a 355 ci that i would have to let of the gas and down shift to get the head lights to pop up if I was going up hill.
