Rocker Panels 74 C3
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 837
Likes: 3
From: Texas
Re: Rocker Panels 74 C3 (Bill Hanna)
The rocker panels are aluminum. You could probably buff them if they're not real bad, but you will have to do the whole panel. They have been anodized (a type of plating) so if you do just a spot there will be a noticable color change. Mine had real deep gouges in them so I ended up getting new ones from Zip.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 2
Re: Rocker Panels 74 C3 (goinbroke)
The rocker panels are aluminum. You could probably buff them if they're not real bad, but you will have to do the whole panel. They have been anodized (a type of plating) so if you do just a spot there will be a noticable color change. Mine had real deep gouges in them so I ended up getting new ones from Zip.
Jeff
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Puyallup W
Re: Rocker Panels 74 C3 (Bill Hanna)
Bill,
Your rocker panels are Aluminum. You can polish them but be advised that they were anodized when they were manufactured. This process creates a protective barrier on the surface of the aluminum in order to prevent oxidation. The nicks & scratches that make the rockers look bad have penetrated the anodizing. If you were to sand one of the scratches out so it blends smoothly with fine paper (600 W/D) you would find that there will be a ring around the area (like a feather edge when you sand through a layer of paint) this ring is the anodize coating. You can then polish the area but the ring will still be there. If you want to polish your rockers, you will get the best result from stripping the anodize completely and then polishing the bare aluminum. You could send the part have it clear anodized after polishing but this is probably not economically feasable. If you decide to polish them just be prepared to keep polishing periodically to keep ahead of the oxidation.
Your rocker panels are Aluminum. You can polish them but be advised that they were anodized when they were manufactured. This process creates a protective barrier on the surface of the aluminum in order to prevent oxidation. The nicks & scratches that make the rockers look bad have penetrated the anodizing. If you were to sand one of the scratches out so it blends smoothly with fine paper (600 W/D) you would find that there will be a ring around the area (like a feather edge when you sand through a layer of paint) this ring is the anodize coating. You can then polish the area but the ring will still be there. If you want to polish your rockers, you will get the best result from stripping the anodize completely and then polishing the bare aluminum. You could send the part have it clear anodized after polishing but this is probably not economically feasable. If you decide to polish them just be prepared to keep polishing periodically to keep ahead of the oxidation.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 30,183
Likes: 313
From: Lake Norman NC
Re: Rocker Panels 74 C3 (Bill Hanna)
hey man, i've buffed mine, clear coated them, and tried everything in the book and they still look like $H!T....i really recommend just buying new ones...for $300, its money well spent.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 30,183
Likes: 313
From: Lake Norman NC
Re: Rocker Panels 74 C3 (Bill Hanna)
at first i buffed.....couldn't get the big scratches out, so i sanded with 1000...then buffed some more..then clear coated....it was barely better than it was...after installing new rocker panels....it makes a world of difference in the appearance of your vette.
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Advanced
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 87
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Has anyone had any luck with going to bare aluminum, polish, then clear? Only the drivers side is getting oxidized and in a couple spots. Any advice on how to stop the progress of the oxidation? Dont have the wallet now for a new set of rocker panels (spending too much on BFG's on all 4) 
I just have some elbow grease I can lay down.
73' BTW
Thanks in advance,
BG
I just have some elbow grease I can lay down.73' BTW
Thanks in advance,
BG
Last edited by grahambb; Mar 8, 2012 at 11:57 PM. Reason: forgot something
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,336
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I stripped mine, then wet-sanded up to 600 (lastly with kerosene) then hit them with a good buffing by hand with some flitz.
That gave then a nice bright - very slightly brushed look. Re-painted the black stripe, bolted them on
That was three years ago, haven't touched them since other than washing. They are just starting to get a little dull (took them off this winter and had a pretty good look) So I'll hit them with some flitz again before they go back on.
Mooser
That gave then a nice bright - very slightly brushed look. Re-painted the black stripe, bolted them on
That was three years ago, haven't touched them since other than washing. They are just starting to get a little dull (took them off this winter and had a pretty good look) So I'll hit them with some flitz again before they go back on.
Mooser
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,714
Likes: 32
From: Shreveport LA
LA Events Coordinator
Will the anodized coating come off if you remove them & buff them with a table buffer/polisher? I was going to remove them this weekend and buff them out but now I'm a little concerned. Mine don't have any deep scratches or gouges...I'm just getting ready for the show season.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The anodized coating is a 'hard' coat. It is there to protect the panel from oxidation...but also to minimize road rash.
If you strip/sand off the coating, you will be down to bare [soft] aluminum. Then, any little rock, etc. will cause bigger dings & dents.
You can try to just polish the anodized layer, but I've not had any success with that. Perhaps just use some #0000 steel wool to lightly buff the surface (move in lengthwise direction only); then clearcoat.
If you strip/sand off the coating, you will be down to bare [soft] aluminum. Then, any little rock, etc. will cause bigger dings & dents.
You can try to just polish the anodized layer, but I've not had any success with that. Perhaps just use some #0000 steel wool to lightly buff the surface (move in lengthwise direction only); then clearcoat.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
The anodize will sand off (pretty harder to buff through) PIA in my opinion. Some people use a D/A, I strip it off chemically.
If you sand, It's surprisingly harder than you would think and you need to make sure it's all gone otherwise you get these "spots" where it is still left (anodize won't buff)
Mooser
If you sand, It's surprisingly harder than you would think and you need to make sure it's all gone otherwise you get these "spots" where it is still left (anodize won't buff)
Mooser
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
I stripped mine, then wet-sanded up to 600 (lastly with kerosene) then hit them with a good buffing by hand with some flitz.
That gave then a nice bright - very slightly brushed look. Re-painted the black stripe, bolted them on
That was three years ago, haven't touched them since other than washing. They are just starting to get a little dull (took them off this winter and had a pretty good look) So I'll hit them with some flitz again before they go back on.
Mooser
That gave then a nice bright - very slightly brushed look. Re-painted the black stripe, bolted them on
That was three years ago, haven't touched them since other than washing. They are just starting to get a little dull (took them off this winter and had a pretty good look) So I'll hit them with some flitz again before they go back on.
Mooser
I know with mounting strain gauges to aluminum it has to be wet sanded to bare aluminum then within 20 minutes the gauge has to be mounted, otherwise oxidation is between the gauge and aluminum (not good).
I know clear coat is hard enough to protect paint (for most rocks and road debris) against chips, why wouldnt it be good for covering aluminum? Anysuggestions on brand? I dont have a gun so rattle can is the only option for now.
Thanks in advance,
BG
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,336
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Nobody actually said it didn't oxidize
Most of the aluminum polishing compounds also contain some sort of protectant/sealer/snake-oil. As I'm sure you know, we aren't trying to achieve a cyano bond at the level needed for strain gages, just something pretty to look at.
I do actually wash the car the odd time, I've got a rag that I use for wiping down the chrome and stainless trim, it's been saturated with flitz for so long it's probably more flitz than fabric at this point, you give the rocker panel a wipe and then a pass with the buffing cloth, no different than the bumpers, etc get. I didn't go for a mirror finish. As I said, works just fine for my taste
Clear will work, although it always seems harder to get paint to stick to aluminum, especially when you've polished it and removed any "key"
if I was going to clear them I'd shoot them with actual clear (from base/clear paint) it certainly won't yellow and will stand up as good as what's one the car.
If I stuck with rattle cans, I've had pretty good luck with the krylon brand
Mooser
Most of the aluminum polishing compounds also contain some sort of protectant/sealer/snake-oil. As I'm sure you know, we aren't trying to achieve a cyano bond at the level needed for strain gages, just something pretty to look at.
I do actually wash the car the odd time, I've got a rag that I use for wiping down the chrome and stainless trim, it's been saturated with flitz for so long it's probably more flitz than fabric at this point, you give the rocker panel a wipe and then a pass with the buffing cloth, no different than the bumpers, etc get. I didn't go for a mirror finish. As I said, works just fine for my taste
Clear will work, although it always seems harder to get paint to stick to aluminum, especially when you've polished it and removed any "key"
if I was going to clear them I'd shoot them with actual clear (from base/clear paint) it certainly won't yellow and will stand up as good as what's one the car.
If I stuck with rattle cans, I've had pretty good luck with the krylon brand
Mooser
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 13
From: Mascoutah IL
Here's an article that recommends Drano to clean, then wet sand 600, buff and finish with a coat of wax... Wish it had pictures, but...
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/665.cfm
Rogman
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/665.cfm
Rogman
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,336
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,336
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Virtually all of the commercial stuff it too.
I don't think anyone will argue that polish and re-anodizing would be the best solution but it's not easy to find a good anodizing house anymore, especially one that will do bits and pieces (especially with the enviro stuff nowadays, a lot of them up our ways are closing up and moving)
I can do my own anodizing here but as always, limited in size to my equipment which is sufficient for my work but doesn't lend itself to much car stuff.
Mooser