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OK, I take the Vette in today to have the calipers, pads and rotors replaced and the mechanic tells me that the original rotors are still on the car, because they were riveted on?? Back in 1982??
Did Chevy actually do that?? Why??
Cost me an extra 2 hours worth of labor to get them off, and just wondered what was the reason for riveting them on, and if anyone else had the same problem... :confused:
The rotors are riveted on, because I believe they are manufactured as a unit. The riveting allows for closer tolerances when it comes to runout.
The above may not be entirely correct, but that's how I understand it.
When I rebuilt my front end, I bought a carbide bit and I drilled out the rivets. It does not take anywhere near two hours. I'm sorry he charged you that. To drill out the rotors took this first timer fifteen minutes. Not a big deal.
Next time, try doing the brakes yourself. It's easy and a lot less expensive than having someone else do it for you. You could do the whole thing in a shade over an hour.
Yes, they were riveted at the factory. Anyone that doesn't have the rivets has had the rotors off at least once. And 2 hours extra labor is a fair price because it's a real PITA to get them off.
Well, I burnt up a drill getting them out. Maybe others have had better luck. I agree, try doing it yourself next time. Mechanics easily take advantage of people that don't know any better.
Dont get me wrong, I'm not bitchin about the cost for the two hours, for me it was worth it. Just wondering why they (CHEVY-GM) would do that?? :confused:
Chevy did it because when the rotors are NOT riveted on and you bleed the brakes the rotor moves the pistons move ( remember the .007" runout rule? ) and pumps air into the system. You cannot, well it's really hard, to get a good bleed with the rotors unriveted. O-Ring calipers will help tho...
I actually recommend tapping the hubs for a 3/8x16 and using screws to hold the rotors steady, much better bleed that way...
I agree with 427. You have to use the lug nuts to hold the rotor in place.
And I understand the whole time vs money thing. I've sent my car into the shop on more than one occasion, when I was too busy to mess with it. But then I inevitably get taken advantage of. So unless it's really bad, I try it on my own.
I just went through this... use hardened drill bit.. very easy then.
From what I understand, it was an economics thing. With the rotors riveted it saved time on the assembly line. 1 motion versus 2 or 3. Also, the General sold complete units with hub, etc... as replacement (they still do). Lugs will hold the new rotors on (like a modern car) Once you do this, you won't have to do it again.
The rotors werent really that bad as far as wear goes, but I had one or two that were warped, and rotting out from the inside. We replaced all 4 rotors and calipers, and the braking now, is great. :yesnod:
The rotors were riveted on at the factory because they were turned along with the axle shaft as unit. This minimized rotor run out when installed. They obviously don't need re-riveted but do make sure that the rotor runout is held to a minimum when they're reinstalled. Check by holding the rotor in place with the lugnuts and use a dial indicator to make sure everything is in spec. If out, check for dirt or rust on the hub or rotor. If there isn't anything obvious that woud affect runout, use some shim stock to try to get things back in line. If that still doesn't work whoever turned the rotors didn't get them true and should re-do them.