JUST ABOUT TO INSTALL A SNIPPER KIT FROM N.O.S 100 TO 150 SHOT NEED TO KNOW IF I SHOULD INSATLL IT WITH THE WOT SWITCH OR USE A BUTTON TO ACTIVATE. ALSO HOW LONG SHOULD IT STAY ON AND ON WHICH GEAR SHOULD I USE UNTIL THE CAR SHIFTS TO 3RD(DRIVE) :reddevil

 

With any nitrous system you have 2 switches. One is the arming switch. When you want to run nitrous open the bottle and arm the system with the arming switch. The second switch is a micro switch mounted to the throttle linkage. This is a must. The nitrous is only on when the throttle is WIDE open. Do not just use a seperate switch that you hit when you want.NO>
The solenoids are fed by a relay, not a switch and the micro switch just switches on the relay. It does not take full solenoid power.

So we have an arming switch that sends power to the micro switch that is mounted on the throttle which sends power to the arming or closing circuit of a 30 amp relay. About $5.00 for the switch.

This is the way to do it. Do not try rigging it up some other way. Sure there are other ways but I have years of experience and know what is safe for the novice.
I do this installations for the local kids.
You do NOT need different plugs, a seperate fuel system or touch the timming. Stick to the 100 horse shot, not the 150 or rules change
I run my jets square which means about .054 gas and nitrous
You can use it in any gear all the way through the quarter without a problem or in high speed runs until you run out of gas.
Nitrous actually cools the motor.
Do it my way and you will not have a problem. Talk to me if you have a problem and I will help you out.
I have seen a 16 second car go to high 13's with 100 horse.
Good luck silver79 and trust what I say.

 

I agree w/ Norval that it is much safer to only run a WOT switch for activation.

However, if you have traction issues in lower gear(s), then having the nitrous kick on when you mat the throttle is a waste of nitrous, rubber, and you go slower too. :(

I have run nitrous for a number of years on several different cars, and I have always used a manual activation switch in conjunction with a full throttle switch. Both switches must be activated for the nitrous to kick on. You arm the system, and then you must have the throttle matted AND be depressing the manual activation switch.

This is nice b/c if traction is a problem in lower gears, you can still go full throttle without having the nitrous kick on. Then once you have traction, you hit the button and the nitrous kicks on.

Very effective on street tires. :)

 

Thanks Norval, can you tell about the rules at 150HP. They that NOS is addictive. :reddevil

 

I know NOS is addictive but you will hardly tell the difference between 100 and 150 horse yet you should have a dedicated fuel system for 150 horse, run colder plugs and back off the timing. Is it worth the extra hassel, the increased risk of engine damage, the increased consumption of nitrous for a hardly noticable increase.
The 100 horse will feel great and it is safe and no mods to anything but jumping to 150 greatly increases the risk to components and you really need all the modifications I mentioned.
Stick with the 100 horse, something that you can saftely use whenever you want. Don't go the extra 50 horse. It is not worth it.
At 100 horse any stock motor will handle it, by 200 most stock engines will self distruct.
I have installed lots of 100 horse and keep all the jets from the kids and never had a nitrous failure. I personally have run up to 250 horse with a built motor and all the precautions and that first 100 horse is the best. Like loosing your virginity. Nothing else will every compare. :)

 

i agree with norval start low on a stock motor,ive run from 50 shot to a 175 shot,175 is real blast but youll be safer with a 100 shot and keep the motor alive longer.