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Anyone have a secret to getting the u-joints out? I went to the base auto hobby shop(I'm in the Air Force) and one of the overpaid/underqualified nitwits there started hammering on the tube of the half shaft. When I told him to stop, he says. "Why? Is it going in a show truck or something?" Damn idiot. He has a gutted out Rustang-go figure. It took all I had not to tell him that he needs to keep his big hammer in his Ford toolbox. Anyway, I've sprayed them with WD-40 and plan to let them sit overnight. I had them beadblasted already, but I can tell that the rust is what has the cups glued in place. I don't want any of them "helping" me again, so does anyone have any suggestions for getting them out without damaging them? Thanks in advance.
you are probably going to need a press if they have not been out in a long time. make sure you support the inner part of the flanges....otherwise you could bend them and when reinstalling the new u-joints they could be right.
do a search with my name and u-joints......some info should come up
A press is the easiest. The big "C" clamp U-joint remover/installers work, too. A vise with two sockets, but I broke my vice doing that. A torch also works well to cut the spider out, and each part will press out easier (because you are only pushing on one bearing cap) A cutoff wheel will do the same thing as a torch, too.:cheers:
Hammering seems to be a popular method. Thats how I did mine. First pull the clips, then lay the shaft down across a couple a 4x4 posts, select a socket a bit smaller than the cup itself, Line it up and swing. Then you gotts pick up the socked and line it up again for each strike. Big hammer is the tool for the job here. Once you get the opposite cup drivin about half way out the other end you can clamp it with vice grips and work it back and forth to pull it out. Flip the shaft over and slid a socket down over the cross and drive the other one out the other way. But only far enough so you can clamp it with vice grips and work it out. If you hammer the cross thru too far it will hit the eye on the shaft and booger it up. Then you need to file the burrs out before putting the new joints in. If yur carefull you dont booger it up, but its not the end of the world if you do. Now putting them back in, I squeeze them togeather with a vice. Then tap lightly with a hammer and socket to get em centered. Its kinda tricky and it takes some practice.
I agree that you will probably need to use a press. When I was in the Air Force, the hobby shops at all my bases had a decent press. But make sure you follow the above advice and support the inner part, you don't want the ear to break off or the flange to bend.
If you're worried about breaking it, then it might not be a bad idea to take it to a shop that specializes in drive shafts. They were easy to find in Utah because of all the off road vehicles, not sure how plentiful they'd be in Florida.
To me the best way to remove U joints is to take the cutting torch and cut the X out of the joint. I then use a hair chissel to jar the cups out. I then take a flapper wheel or emery paper and totally remove any rust. Clean the grove, debur the joint then holding the tube in the vise gently with a brass hammer walk the new joint in. No pressing required , no force.
I watched my son replace the joints on the front of my truck and he made it look so easy.
Cut the X out, air chiessel to walk the old caps out, sand, debur, forgot, grease the cups on the outside then walk the new cups in.
If you are doing the 1/2 shafts the outer flanged joint can be bent really easy in a press, I have a special fixture that would be needed to bolt onto the flange to support it.
The torch works the best.
Good luck.
one of the overpaid/underqualified nitwits there started hammering on the tube of the half shaft. When I told him to stop, he says. "Why? Is it going in a show truck or something?" Damn idiot. He has a gutted out Rustang-go figure. It took all I had not to tell him that he needs to keep his big hammer in his Ford toolbox. :lolg: :lolg: :lolg:
Thanks for all of the great info. I forgot to mention that I tried a press first, but didn't want to put too much pressure on it because I knew that it should not be as difficult as it was. I also tried the double socket in the vise method. The huge bench vise would not tighten up anymore. I may try a variety of methods tomorrow. While I'm at it, anyone have any advice as far as installation of new u-joints after I have the shafts powder coated? Thanks a bunch everyone.
I finally got the u-joints out. I can't believe how difficult it was. The rest of the car only has surface rust, so it came as a shock to see all of the rust around the cups of the u-joints. They were all pretty solid - They are Spicer's and I assume the originals. The half shafts also say Spicer on them. Anyway, I first had the shafts bead blasted and hoped that it would facilitate removing the j-joints. That couldn't be further from the truth. I had to beat the holy crap out of them. The press was of no use in removing them. There is a load of rust in each area where the cups resided-so much that I gave up on cleaning them up with steel wool and went to using 400 grit sandpaper. They are coming out really shiney. The holes were machined pretty rough. I have to assume making them shiney won't hurt. Does anyone know why there are heavy machine lines in the u-joint cup mounting area? Thanks in advance.....
I did mine last year and bought a manual 2 ton press. It wouldn't touch them! I took them to a friend who has a 30 ton hydraulic press. It grunted but did the job. I was able to put the new ones in with the 2 ton manual press. Good luck.
How's Indy? I was up there last summer for a conference and loved it. Loads of "Corvette friendly" hills. I also thought it quite cool to see all of the UPS trucks with flames on the sides.
Before putting the new ones in I always run some emory cloth or fine sandpaper thru the eyes to clean em up real good. It makes it easier going togeather that way. And check real close for burrs or nicks that may have been caused in the removal process. Flatten the nicks and burs with a rattail file.