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I can't get enough adjustment on the clutch rod to fully disengage the clutch, since new carpet, pad and insulation. I pulled the transmission to check everything out, seems to have the correct throw out bearing, (short one) and the clutch fork ball shows little wear, the clutch fork doesn't seem to be bent. The flywheel looks ok, it has an 11" clutch, brand unknown, diaphragm type, not much left on the disk but would probably have gone another 5000 miles. I had no grabbing, slipping, vibrations, etc. just hard shiftling and grinding into reverse. Would a longer ball stud do the trick or would this just screw up some other dimension. I plan on having the flywheel resurfaced, putting in a new fork and ball stud and clutch assembly, probably centerforce 11" but there really didn't seem to be anything wrong with my present setup, no miss matched parts, etc at least as far as I could tell. Have a new comp plus shifter, but that didn't help the hard shifting. Any suggestions???? :confused:
Are you missing the spring from the steering column mount to the linkage? It comes from a small hole in the column flange over to the linkage in the engine comp, by the adjustment.
Larry, the spring is there and it is new. That spring insures that the throwout bearing clearance is maintained. My problem is at the reverse end of the process. Acts like the throwout bearing or ball stud are too short. Thanks
Even before new carpet, I had to be sure the clutch was completely floored before shifting. I think a properly functioning setup should be able to work properly within 1 to 2 inches from the floor, if adjusted properly????
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Re: Need help with clutch problems. (jwbert)
Been there jwbert. :yesnod: Look close at your cross shaft lever where the clutch rods attach - mine had elongated slots instead of holes from wear and causing clutch slip as operating rods slopped back and forth. Also had my clutch pedal pin fail at the spot weld on pedal. Required dropping the steering column to R&R entire pedal assembly. Also had to fab replacement pin as old had major wear groove (used ground down high grade bolt). :banghead:
I put in a new Z bar as the old one had been broken and re-welded so the holes are new and round. This is why I'm at a loss to explain why I have a problem.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Re: Need help with clutch problems. (jwbert)
How's about the pedal pin then? Its attached by tiny spot weld(s). Mine was bending back and forth with the clutch operating rod through the firewall until failure - my pedal went to the floor and stayed there. Lucky to be close enough to push into garage. :nopity
I think I'd enlist some pedal pushing help. Lay under the car and see if flooring the pedal actually pushes the clutch fork all the way back.
If it does push it all the way back then the problem has to be in the pivot, fork, bearing, or flywheel (recurfaced many times?).
If it doesn't push it all the way back then the problem must be in the linkage or pedals. Possibly lengthening the link from the fork to the Z bar could give you some more adjustment.
I put in a new Z bar as the old one had been broken and re-welded so the holes are new and round. This is why I'm at a loss to explain why I have a problem.
I would check to make sure that the Z-bar is the right piece. The distance from the center shaft to the holes will effect how far the rods are pushed. If they are correct I would look into the ball stud. Having the incorrect ball stud will cause all kinds of clutch problems.
Make sure both springs are on fork push rod to take up any unwanted slack. If your missing one spring it can result in a half inch of travel being wasted.
All springs are on the clutch rods, the clutch pedal is pushing the fork all the way back to the firewall. It has to be the pivot ball length or throw out bearing length or both. Not knowing what clutch I have other than that it is an 11" diaphragm type I really can't find out length throw out bearing is needed. Same goes for the pivot ball stud. How can I find out what is the correct ball stud length for stock clutch set up. I think center force gives the correct dimension with their clutch kits. Anyway as soon as I get the trans back from the shop (having them go through it and put in all new seals, gaskets, bearings etc, what ever is needed) I'll put in all new parts and hope that with everything matched up correctly it will work right and I won't have to tear it all apart again. I think the clutch rod on mine is attached to the pedal with a clevis and pin, directly to the pedal arm, very solid if I remember right. I was under there to replace the part that snaps over the end of the pin to hold it in the clevis, so I don't think I'm getting any slop in the likage at all. Thanks for all of your suggestions though, need to make sure that everything is rulled out. :cheers: