So it seems everyone thinks there is some sort of 'technique' to adjusting the throttle cable, frankly if it's on anything like a stock setup, such as a TPI equipped engine....I see only one way that makes any sense...that is to make the cable tight as possible when throttle is all the way open...and of course make sure it DOES open all the way when pedal is pressed all the way down....NOW, to do that I just effectively 'shorten' the cable by pulling back on the adjustment tab...then relaxing the tab, force open the throttle blade manually at the engine...that pulls the tranny cable shroud forward into the tab/block right there ....so the cable can't be relaxed, but taught on the opening.....really I see no other way...the more the cable is pulled, the higher the pump/line/controll/actuating pressures inside the tranny and the quicker/harder the shift is.....OK fine, that is the way mine has allways been adjusted...the first/original to me 3/4 clutch pack lasted 4 years...and the 1/2 band was on it's way out also....neither one of which I consider good service, as the tranny internal rubber was all fine, not a thing brittle or worn...just the clutch material was fried, and the band ends distorted....

NOW one of the things left relatively untouched in my Superior/Fairbanks shift kit...which apparently is the one to use....is they never did much if anything to the accumulator valves...these are the round valves off the side of the main iron valve body with their own bolts holding them in place and the valve body plate/gaskets sandwiched in between them....so...
MY issue is that in the past, if you wanted really really hard quick shifts, one thing done was eliminate the accumulator valves, OR weaken the springs, allowing the chamber to fill faster....frankly, looking at the design of this one, I think to just remove the springs entirely, allowing the pistons to stay in the filled position all the time, that way the fluid will allways be in the area and allow the clutch pak much faster application.....NOW the Gil Younger/Trans Go approach is just that way..typically...reduce line pressures, actually, and block accumulators, change shift point/rate/timing/duration by new valve body springs....so the question is.....are my observations correct??? is not, why not???

GENE