Y'all may know that I am in 'tuning' mode on my .020 over 350 since registering 220rwhp and 280rwtq numbers. My combination should be yielding something in the neighborhood of 250rwhp and closer to 300rwtq so I am performing some clean-up and tuning where there are opportunities (I don't want to open the engine up).

In Smokey's Power Secrets, it is recommended to use spiral core spark plug wires and good wire separators to prevent any potential cross-fire or miss-fire under mid or WOT conditions.

Have placed my order for Jacobs Spiro-Pro wires (red) and a set of 16 2-wire separators from MSD. I have already installed a fresh pair of OEM 4-wire separators that mount to the stock locations at the rear of the heads where the wires snake down below the headers. I intend to use the 2-wire separators where the 3/5 and 7/8 wires run parallel and on the 1/3 and 2/4 wires as they are routed behind the steel 'v' covers along the crankcase.

I intend to make this change shortly before or after I install a new advance curve on my ignition. Then, I'll be heading back to Race Related to see if this pair of changes yields any improvement.

Also, I have switched to a pair of Lars-supplied 'DR' secondary metering rods in my q-jet to lean the mixture closer to the 13.-13.1:1 a/f ratio target for WOT. I was running 'DA' rods which yielded a 12.5:1 a/f ratio under WOT.

Lots of fun! :seeya

 

There ya go.
Find a system/guru/process/procedure and stick with the program. Listen. Learn. Take Conventional Wisdom from other sources--especially the Internet--with a BIG grain of salt. Run away fast when someone prefaces remarks or advice by saying, "They say you should/shouldn't do this or that..."

What do "They" know?

"They" say 400 SBCs are, "prone to overheating and cracking."
Wrong.

"They" say an unshrouded 2900 CFM electric fan won't keep a 400 cool in traffic or the track.
Wrong.

"They" say 400s like less than 36 degrees of total timing all in around 3,000 RPM to run best.
Wrong.

And on and on and on and on. You go--Smokey Y is one of a select few people who aren't in the "They" category. :thumbs:

 

I may also take Smokey's advice and install that H-pipe just behind the trans x-member. In Smokey's book, he says positioning isn't critical except that you place it as 'early' in the exhaust system as ground clearance and under-car allows. I have 2.5" pipes that were custom installed in May 2002. I'm going to see if the shop that performed the work can fabricate something for $100 (installed). If fabrication is too expensive, I may buy the 2.5" (h-pipe) balance tube kit from Summit and have the shop weld that in. Question: If I have 2.5" pipes, should I get the 3" balance tube or the 2.5" balance tube? I am thinking 3"... The 3" kit from Summit is $45.00 so if the shop quotes more than, say, $125 for the job but only $50 of that is labor, I may consider the Summit kit.

My understanding of the h-pipe from Smokey's book is that the h-pipe helps to tune the secondary (exhaust pipes) that attach to the 3" header (primary) pipe.

BTW, if you haven't noticed, I've done some serious reading of my new book. I highly recommend it as well as John Lingenfelter's Small Block Chevy book.

Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets by Smokey Yunick with Larry Schreib. Available from Northern Auto Parts, http://www.northernautoparts.com for about $19. Same price at Barnes and Noble, http://www.barnesandnoble.com.

Great reading! Even though it is geared toward the circle track or drag racer, the ideas about WOT performance are relevant in my opinion as I am attempting to improve my engine's overall AND WOT (dyno) performance.

 

I am a firm believer in H-pipes. A rule of thumb is that the H-pipe need only be 75% the diameter of the main pipes, so if you are running 2" pipes 1.5" H-pipe is good...2-1/2 you can use 1.75", etc.

Later
Jeff

 

you go to the head of the class!
Vizards books are great too.
i run as little as 3 qts. of oil to keep the power up as per smokey. and i used his circle track ring gap of .012" filed to fit.
:cheers:

 

After Smokey's book was written, many NASCARs began using an X pipe in lieu of H pipe. I think it gave my 383 a bit more HP and Trq and quieted it down some.

 

I have done all that you have stated here so I must be okay :cheers:

 

I had priced the summit kit at about $45 plus s&h. I am glad I had the muffler shop fabricate one.

The price for muffler shop: $53 including the pipe, labor, welding and tax. They even aligned the duals and replaced two missing exhaust hanger screws.

Not only did I save a load of cash, I also avoided a major hack job they would have had to perform on my exhaust. The summit kit had the two 't's and the middle pipe with six clamps. Instead, the muffler shop fashioned a 2.5 pipe with ends that fit over the insides of the duals. They fabricated the pipe and then positioned it where they wanted it and painted around it, cut the duals by the temporary 'paint' template and then welded the single piece in place. It looks as custom as it gets.

If you are in the St Pete/Clearwater, FL area and need an exhaust system, I cannot say enough: Rainbow Muffler, 38 Ave North, St Pete, FL 727-527-1001.

I am VERY impressed at not only the sound reduction but the overall manners of the car. It sounds so much SMOOTHER at idle and acceleration. I strongly recommend a cross-over pipe if you have installed headers and duals.

:seeya

 

Ted -
Have you tried out those "DR" rods yet? Is there any difference in secondary transition that you can notice? Be sure to pull a couple of plugs after a solid WOT run and make sure you're not indicating too lean...

 

Ted if you enjoy good motor head reading material you've got to try the David Vizard (the wizard) books. "How to build Max Performance CHEVY small blocks on a buget" is my favorite. These books will pay for themselves in horsepower return. :yesnod:

 

Lars,

Yes. I've driven the C3 about every day since installing the 'DR's. It appears to have a much better transition (ie. when the secondaries kick in). I am also getting a better idle which I'm not sure what to make of. I'll pull #7 and #8 this morning and see how they are looking.

I have a question for you: While installing a ProForm balancer cover (to assist with making tuning adjustments with my adjustable timing light) I found that one of the three 'corner' bolts that attach the pulleys to the balancer on my crankshaft is stripped out. I also have a large bolt with washer that attaches the pulleys in the center. I used some medium locktite on the bolt but suspect I should either get some good thread locker (to replace the bad threads) or get a different balancer. I don't want those pulleys flying off...

 

Good idea. Found it on http://www.barnesandnoble.com for $17.05 plus $4 S&H plus tax. Always on the lookout for good 'motor head reading material'. :D

Thanks! :seeya