When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have the day off so cleaned the garage this morning and prepped the TKO. I cut the torque mount boss off and narrowed the tranny mount pad. More work than I thought. They're not saving on the aluminum.
I will try and install it without cutting the crossmember out. I don't quite see how it is possible as the tremec can slide 5.5" rearward before hitting the crossmember and the input shaft is 6.5" long. But Keisler says it can be done, so I will give it my best shot.
I tried and tried to get mine in without removing the crossmember. I even tried bolting the bellhousing to the tranny first. I removed the dist. and tillted the motor as far back as I dared. NO LUCK So I yanked the motor and was going to put them in one piece. Well I got all crazy then because I bought steroids and hydr boost. While waiting for those to arrive I looked over at my 57 Chevy which was waiting for installation a rebuilt LT1 6speed and said that motor combo needs to be in the vette. Now two cars are down and the wife is ready to commit me! :banghead:
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Re: Starting the Tremec TKO install today (74 vert)
Did you get the Keisler kit or are you doing your own? I don`t remember. I think maybe later if everything goes well here, I am gonna paint and put the Keisler kit in.
Re: Starting the Tremec TKO install today (Eddie 70)
I didn't get the keisler kit. I don't mind enlarging the hole in the floor for the shifter, and that's really all you get with the keisler that can't be easily duplicated.
One solution I'm considering if I can't get the thing in is cutting a notch in the bellhousing where the input shft needs to go by and then making a plate to cover the notch. We'll see.
As for the 4-speed, I don't know. Was planning to put it in the shed unless someone wants to part with some $$$? It's an M20. I put a rebuild kit into it about 2 years ago (synchros, bearings, crosshaft) and a new slider & fork. Only problem I've noticed is a slight oil leak. Don't know which seal but I'll probably figure it out once I take it out. I would also have a 2 year old hurst comp plus shifter (minus handle) to go with it.
Re: Starting the Tremec TKO install today (Bob Turner)
Zwede!!!
Congrats on your 5 speed swap!!! I didn't realize that you were doing it! Great! Are you keeping the 3.08's?????
Awesome!!
Bob :cool:
Bob: Yes, I think 3.08's are perfect with the TKO. 1st gear is over 3:1 so anything higher than 3.08 will make 1st pretty useless. With 5th being a 0.68:1 I'll turn about 2000 rpm @ 80mph. Again, just where I like it. I wonder if I can approach 20mpg on the freeway with the OD + the EFI???
I didn't get the keisler kit. I don't mind enlarging the hole in the floor for the shifter, and that's really all you get with the keisler that can't be easily duplicated.
One solution I'm considering if I can't get the thing in is cutting a notch in the bellhousing where the input shft needs to go by and then making a plate to cover the notch. We'll see.
As for the 4-speed, I don't know. Was planning to put it in the shed unless someone wants to part with some $$$? It's an M20. I put a rebuild kit into it about 2 years ago (synchros, bearings, crosshaft) and a new slider & fork. Only problem I've noticed is a slight oil leak. Don't know which seal but I'll probably figure it out once I take it out. I would also have a 2 year old hurst comp plus shifter (minus handle) to go with it.
That is why I asked....I may be interested in buying it!! :cheers: Just let me know if it is for sale and what you want for it
hey zwede..let me know you get it in there...are you going to use the bracket from bowtieoverdrives?
ohhh i havent pulled mine outta the box yet cause i have no where to put it but was curious where this aluminum is that has to be cut off. if you took a picture of it, id appreciate seeing that.
chris
Your going to love the Tremec with it's overdrive. I have had one for 2 years and with it's 3.27 or something close to that 1st will be right around 10 to 1 on takeoff and with the .68 overdrive your 3.08's will become 2.10's in overdrive. That is 1600 at 60, 1900 at 70. Also the tremec's internal rail shifter is smooth.
For the first 500 miles the transmission will not shift that smooth but after that it really improves. Needs about that long to loosen up enough for smooth shifts.
Good luck. I don't know about cutting a groove in the bellhousing though. The aluminum bellhousing are quite flimsy to begin with and the groove might just weaken it more.
If it was me I would look at modifying the crossmember to make the center section removable.
Put plates on the sides, NOT the top and bottom. Bolt them on to begin with, then remove and with a saws all cut the peice out, rebolt the plates on the sides and weld to the removeable center section and bolt to the fixed parts on the frame.
If you make it removable remember plates on the side not top and bottom.
Good luck. It is worth it.
Have the day off so cleaned the garage this morning and prepped the TKO. I cut the torque mount boss off and narrowed the tranny mount pad. More work than I thought. They're not saving on the aluminum.
I will try and install it without cutting the crossmember out. I don't quite see how it is possible as the tremec can slide 5.5" rearward before hitting the crossmember and the input shaft is 6.5" long. But Keisler says it can be done, so I will give it my best shot.
Wish me luck :)
Zwede, I'm in the process right now - I do have the tranny hung (tailshaft held up with jack stand) I tried to install without cutting crossmember, i lopped all kinds of stuff on the trans off to make room - all with no luck. In the end I rented a sawzall and carved the crossmember out - I dropped it off this morning at a welding shop to have the bolt brackets welded onto it.
About the closest I was able to get was 1/2" short but that was with the tranny twisted around - in the tunnel at an angle and - all - I even had the shifter removed from the tailshaft for more clearance with no luck.
I wish you better luck than I had - but everything is in place to have it back on the road next weekend - the driveshaft is at the driveline shop being shortened (will be finished tuesday noon) and the crossmember will be ready wednesday.
That gives me thursday and friday to POR-15 everything. Saturday to reinstall x-member and driveshaft. Get the sidepipes welded up and I am golden.
Again I wish you all the luck and if you can get it in there without cutting I really want to know how you did it.
Re: Starting the Tremec TKO install today (fauxrs)
I think I am going to adopt norval's idea of welding in brackets. I heard of this before with the ROD6 install. When this is done, it can be pulled in and out w/o moving the motor foward?
Where can I find some thick metal to make these brackets out of? What kind of metal and how thick does everyone suggest?
thanks!
Chris
Re: Starting the Tremec TKO install today (74VETTE)
I don't know what your crossmember looks like but 1/8th steel plate should work, Hot or colded rolled doesn't matter. Bolt the plates to the crossmember first, you can even do this with sheet metal screws, these are just for marking, cutting and holding for rewelding.
Anyway screw the plates on first, then remove and cut between the sets of holes.
When the section you want to remove is on the floor rebolt the plates to this section and get someone to weld them solid. For the fixed pieces still on the car you would drill larger holes one at a time and drill and tap for better bolts.
Once again start with 1/8th plates front and back not top and bottom. clamp them in place and even sheet metal screws will work at first. Screw the plate on nice a square, mark the plates exactly which side and end they fit, remove the plates and with a sawzall cut where you want the cut, rescrew the plates to the removable piece, get it welded solid, rescrew the crossmember back together with the screws then one by one drill and tap for larger strong bolts. You have the option of also using through bolts also.
Good luck and it is not that hard and in future it will be easy to remove replace the transmission.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.