Anyone using Aluminum Heads have any problems with ground the Distributor to the frame and causing the spark plugs to not fire? But I am getting fire to the plugs. The motor will not fire up. I have Aluminum Heads and Aluminum Intake. I have fire to coil, Distributor, and out to plugs. It gets fuel, and I have rechecked the timing, I dont remember how many times and it is correct. This is a brand new motor. I wonder if I should try to ground the spark plugs? I am running out of ideas. I have never had this problem before. Any ideas would be helpful.
:cheers: Larry

 

I have aluminum heads and ground is fine. I know you said you checked timing, but my feeling is that's where the problem is. Are you sure you have it on the firing stroke of #1 and not on #6? Very common problem. How did you set the timing?

 

Yes I set the Distributor in on the compression stroke as I have always done in the past. I don't even get a backfire. just cranks.
I just got back from trying to ground the plugs and I got a hit. That gonna suk if I have to ground each plug to get it to fire.
Any ideas why I get fire when I ground out # 1 plug?

:cheers: Larry

 

Whats the cranking cylinder pressure?If the cams in wrong,you'll never run.If you have spark,good compression,and of course fuel,you should at least get a pop out of it.Once it pops,timing will dial it in.
I had a BB Pontiac that I drove to the autobody shop for rear quarters and paint. When it was finished it would not fire. I replaced the intake/carb and it ran like a new car. Go figure!

 

After compression check, my gauge reads I have 175. So that is plenty. I have spark to the plugs, I have fuel. And the timing is correct. I just rechecked it again. #1 up until you feel compression, then to TDC, install Distributor with rotor pointing towards # 1 on Cap. I also have about 65lbs oil pressure while cranking. so something is not right, I need more ideas. I am out of ideas.
:cheers: Larry

 

Aluminum is a fine conductor of electricity. If the plugs are screwed into the heads, they are grounded. If you are getting spark, the ignition system is grounded.

Sounds like you have the timing deal down fine. Can you EVER get a pop during cranking? Try pulling distributor WAY advanced and see what happens.

Any chance plugs are fouled already? Not sure what ignition you have but HEI's have a very hard time firing a fouled plug. They will help keep it from fouling, but once fouled, it's almost impossible to get it to light.

Is it getting spark during actual cranking with the key or with a starter button? I'm thinking something could be goofy with the coil wiring through the starter solenoid to provide additional voltage during cranking. Maybe it is only getting fire when you are actually turning key,but as you release it to "run" it has no spark?

How long has it been sitting? I had one that sat for a couple of years and the gas would almost run but not quite. Kept fouling plugs during initial start up and new fuel fixed issue.

I'l try to think of more possibilities. Let us know what you find!

JIM

 

Hows the cranking sound? Is is fast and easy,or slow and strained?Could it be a weak battery?The oil pressure is high,and I find it hard to believe at cranking speed.
My sending unit wire fell off the other day and the oil pressure guage pegged at 80.Maybe you've got a bad connection there and it just reads high.

 

The only time I get a pop is when I run a ground wire from the plug to a ground wire on frame. I have factory Distributor, with pertronix installled. I did away with 3 wire starter and put on a 2 wire high tork. The coil assist wire I did away with, but I run a new wire from the ignition side of switch. when switch is on I have a full 12 volts going to coil. Plugs are not fouled. 1 month ago I was driving it after I painted the car. And the motor cranks very fast. Brand new Battery, about 3 months ago.
Thanks For your input. Its gotta be something simple.
I am gonna keep trying tonight.
:cheers: Larry

 

Make sure the points are not grounded out and the rotor and condenser. I know this sounds stupid. But I went to a friends shop with one of my Camaros and it wouldn`t start. I just could not believe that my rotor was bad. After a hour of fooling around I robbed a old rotor from an old junky looking street rod and it fired right up. :withstupid:

 

Do you have 12 volts going to the Pertronix? I had a BIG problem with pertronix which turned out to be the wire from the starter switch (base of column) was delivering something like 7 volts. Even when corrected it was never right...I am not convinced Pertronix is any good... the MSD 6AL fixed all my ignition problems.
Jeff

 

Now if there was anti-seize on the threads of the spark plugs would it still be grounded? Because i did put a little on them.
Thanks :cheers: Larry

 

I use copper based anti-seize on my plugs and they work fine. Measure the voltage and see what you're getitng at the coil when cranking. Also, for testing, run a jumper from the battery post on the alternator to the positive side of the coil.

Be sure the coil is the proper coil for the pertronix. If you use a regular coil that was intended to be used with a ballast resistor and you run 12V to it the pertronix will fry. Personal experience talking here... :rolleyes:

 

OK I got a chance to work so more on it. I am getting 12 volts to the coil and when cranking I am getting 10 volts. But the battery is starting to lose juice, my charger quit on me last week. So I will have to take the battery to work and charge it Monday. Hell with I off to buy a new charger and see what happens then.
:cheers: Larry

 

My guess: The pertronix failed. If you still have the points laying around, swap them back in and see if it starts.

 

I switched to a 2 wire starter and had them same problem so I switched the extra wire and got it fire but would die as soon as I let off the key. I finally hooked up both red wire and it fired and ran. I think you need all three wires hooked up or you will either not get a cranking fire or not get a running fire.

 

Just checked and I do have both red wires hooked up with the postive lead coming from the battery so I do believe you need to hook up that other red wire.

 

My pertronix is still good. It all checked out. So you have the pink wire going from the pos side of starter to the pos side of coil? I basically have the same thing but just coming from elsewhere. Maybe I will change it back to the pos side of starter.
:cheers: Larry

 

Aluminum is an excellent conducter. Almost as good as copper and is used in a lot of electrical wire applications. With coated bolts and a non-conducting head gasket it's possible that you are having a grounding issue although unlikely.

If you still think grounding might be an issue you could try running a grounding strap from the head to the frame. You can check if the anti-sieze compound is a problem by checking the resistance between the the spark plug body and the head, it should be near 0.

 

Pertronix SUX I would throw that crap away. I had nothing but problems with two different units then bought a mallory dual point distributor with tach drive and NO MORE PROBLEMS

 

it just seems weird. Saturday I took out #1 Spark plug and grounded it with a piece of wire to alt ground, motor fired up. So I put it Back in and grounded the # plug to the alt ground and it fired and kicked back knocking my starter out of alignment. so I had to realign my starter today. I haven't had much time today to mess with it. I think I am going to ground each spark plug and see what it does then. Maybe it will run maybe not. I know of a few people using the pertronix and like it very much. Time will tell I guess


:cheers: Larry