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I just tore my steering box apart tonight, and found that there was no grease in the box but there was an oily film on everything. There was some lubrication on the rotating parts, but not much. My car sat for about 5 years after the previous owner had the chasis and drive train rebuilt by a shop in Houston. It has only been drive about 1000 miles since. Fortunately the gears and all looked to be in good shape tonight. No noticable wear except for the bushings, which have a little slack in them. The seals are very hard. I assume by the looks of the box, that it had been filled with oil instead of grease which eventually leaked out. Was this common on these boxes? I thought I would check the Chevy house for parts before going to the after market dealers. I have read several rebuild articles over the last couple of days. Any suggestions or pointers by the members?
I did a rebuild also but just replacing the bearings and seals is not enough. The bushings need to be replaced and if the pitman arm is worn custom fit bushings are required. The pitman to bushing clearance was .006 on my box and factory bushings would only bring it to about .003 and I needed .001 so I made custom bushings.
I don't know if new boxes are just rebuilds using existing bushings or not. The bushings make the difference.
On top of the box is an adjustment screw and nut. The washer under the screw is also important for removing backlash. It is not just a washer but a spacer. Don't overlook it.
In an article done on The Big Block From Hell they really give a good account on how to rebuild a box.
It's very common for these boxes to leak because they sit close to the headers and the grease just starts to liquify over time. I would do as Norval said with replaceing the bushing. Not everyones rebuild kits comes with the bushings so be sure to ask. Buying a new box is a waste of money if you ask me. We rebuild at least 300 every six months and maybe 10 of them will need new parts because of pitting in the pitman gear or worm shaft. Just be sure to use a high temp grease in your box when you do the rebuild.
Can i tell if the grease is still ok without taking the cover off? I can't see much through the bolt hole with a flashlight and it wouldn't take any grease or gear oil. I suspect that if i take the cover off with it still in the car, i would be hosed.
Removing the cover will require unscrewing the lash screw. This will require you to readjust the lash and that requires disconnecting the pitman arm from the relay rod or control valve.
Gary
I agree with Gary... the pitman arm must be disconnected to make the adjustment. I have done many of these and after trying the first one with the arm connected... and friggin it up... I read the GM recommended service procedure.
The point where there is maximum gear contact and zero over-pressure is difficult to adjust to, even with the box removed and on the bench. It takes a VERY light touch. With the pitman arm connected, there is too much interference by the other steering components to be able to tell where the correct "sweet spot" is. Can it be done without disconnecting the pitman arm? Yes... but if you get it right, it will be mostly luck.
Also... NEVER disconnect a pitman arm with a pickle fork... you hammer the poop out of the lower bushing when you used a pickle fork. Use the correct tool... a pitman arm puller.
To check your steering box to see if it's needs grease or not take off one of the cover bolts and stick a broom bristle or something in there. Make sure it's not liquified. Liquified grease is not good.
Black68Vette,
We charge $189.99 for the rebuild and you get 5% off for being a forum member. We do install new bushings in the boxes as well. It's a common asked question because others that sell just the rebuild kits do not include the new bushings but we do. And our turn around time for steering boxes is 2-4 days.