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I've never replaced trailing arm bushings and have some questions. I've done some research and am still not sure about certain things. Even the service manual isn't much help.
1st...Ecklers offers a polyurethane trailing arm front bushing kit which includes a flaring tool. Catalog #203, page 174, item # A7147. Would these be better than the rubber bushings?
2nd...Ecklers claims that these bushings can be installed without removing the T-arms. How does this work?....does the arm drop down after removal of the through bolt?
Last but not least....the through bolt looks darn near impossible to get in and out with such limited space. I can see where it would knock out OK but re-installing looks tough. Is there some trick that I'm not seeing?
Replace the t-arm bushings without removal - like to see the procedure. Anyway, go to the VanSteel site and order a copy of their Vette suspension video for $20. Best investment for education you can make.
I'd like to see that too. I quesitoned Eckler's on another item in their catalog, and they pleaded "misprint".
I suppose one could remove the rear spring and strut rods, and push the TAs back far enough to get access to the bushings. But then again they need to be pressed in.
The TA bolts can be removed with the body on (at least on a C2), but not easily.
I got a complete rear set of poly bushings from PST for $60 postpaid. Good stuff. Includes TA, spring, dif mount, and strut rod bushings - all of which you will need evetually.
Goinbroke..I just went through this last summer on my 81. I went with he rubber vs the polyurethane but that was just my preference. I figured if they lasted this long the first time around it would be a while before I would have to do it again. I sure would like to know how it could be done without removing the Tarms...some type of FM i'm sure. I had to freeze mine to get them into the arms because they are a press fit. Reinstalling is a breeze...getting the old ones out is the PITA. Do not be surprised if you end up cutting them out, that was the only way I could get mine out :banghead: .
Here is a link to a few pics that may help you out. www.angelfire.com/al/swhite7/rearend.html Good luck!
Thay can't be removed without taking the trailing arms off. The trailing arm fits into a pocket in the frame so it will not drop out through the bottom. As for the staking tool it is just a 3/8's bolt with a tappered nut on the end. It does not work properly. The through steel bushing need to be compressed then peened over. I made a simple tool that works great after trying their method.
As for restarting the through bolt a pair of needle nose pliers works fine. While building the 6 link suspension I did install/ remove this bolt about a dozen times.
Good luck.
... As for the staking tool it is just a 3/8's bolt with a tappered nut on the end. It does not work properly. The through steel bushing need to be compressed then peened over. I made a simple tool that works great after trying their method....
How about a picture or sketch of this tool?
I'd guess that many people here would like to copy your design (with your permission of course)
I know that I wasn't too impressed with the "flaring tool". It worked though...
The poly bushings comes with one side already peeled over and the tool is very simple. Its pretty much a bolt and a lug nut. Tighten the lug nut and the end peels over. Than your ready to put it back in the car. You do need to shim it though. The kit should provide the shims.
The poly bushings comes with one side already peeled over and the tool is very simple. Its pretty much a bolt and a lug nut. Tighten the lug nut and the end peels over. Than your ready to put it back in the car. You do need to shim it though. The kit should provide the shims.
Hey Dan - last time I caled Van Steel, I spoke with your dad. He indicated that
you guys were woking on a new design that was not pressed in and was not staked on.
Any word on this - or did I totally misunderstand ?
Thanks to all for the great responses....and a special thanks to Ybnormal for the pics and tips. Soooo... the whole rear spindle assy. needs to come out to replace the bushings. Hmmm... well, it will be a winter project here in Texas...not summer. You would think GM could have come up with a better design since these bushings WILL need to be replaced at some time. Now I see why Van Steel is so popular...not a bad idea to have everything done at once by a pro.
Again, thanks for your patience to my rookie questions
He's still trying to have them made up and tested. It's hard to find machine shops to do the work we want some times.
We also build hot rods on the side and we are working on this 37. We've sent our drawings to 3 different people so they can design the type of grill we want on AUTOCAD and none of them have done a thing. We sent the drawings out mid Febuary. :nono: