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I wouldn't think so unless it was already out of alignment. You didn't turn the tie rods did you? I would think the answer is no but maybe I should let the experts answer. :rolleyes:
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Re: If I replace my idler arm... (79MakoL82)
No, I didn't touch the tie rods since my last alignment. When I was rebuilding my front end, the idler arm was back ordered and I never replaced it. When it finally shipped, I set it aside in the garage. :D
If any effect on alignment is caused by replacing the idler arm it would only be the toe setting. So to be safe you could inquire with shops on what it would cost to set just the front toe. It should be far less than a complete alignment and can also be done on older less sifisticated equipment.
The idler arm doen't even affect toe. The length of the tie rods does that. The only thing I can think that it could affect is the centering of the steering wheel. If the wheel seems ok to you it should be fine.
Changing the idler arm could possibly change toe in/out only. The way it could be changed is if the angle of the center bar is changed slightly thus affecting the overall length from outer tie rod to outer tie rod. For piece of mind I would get the toe checked only. I speak from experience having worked in an alignment and frame repair shop for seven years.
I stand corrected. Come to think about it more, norvalwilhelm is correct in that it could possibly change the steering wheel center only. On a C3 anyway, since the idler arm connects the center link to the frame, its not related to the toe setting. If changing it does effect yur steering wheel cented that can be adjusted by turning the tierod ends equal portions on both sides. Just lengthen one side the same amount that you shorten the other and it will change the wheel center. No need to even measure. One half turn longer on one side and one half turn shorter on the other, and so on.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Re: If I replace my idler arm... (norvalwilhelm)
The idler arm doen't even affect toe. The length of the tie rods does that. The only thing I can think that it could affect is the centering of the steering wheel. If the wheel seems ok to you it should be fine.
Norval, I respectfully disagree. Any change done to the drag link or tie rod assy ear to ear, can affect toe. If you are replacing an item that is sagging, then restore proper support for the assembly, the wheels will be toed at a different angle.
Now, to look at it logically at the price of rubber it doesn't make sense to NOT get it checked after repairs are done. Especially when you consider that out of all the angles that affect tire wear in a front end, the TOE has the most dramatic affect on tire wear.
Just my two cents. I did brake&front end for years and I consider myself very knowledgeable about these subjects. OTOH, everyone is entitled to their own opinion, now arene't we! :jester
Jvette: I put in a rebuilt column and now the steering wheel is not centered. How many turns does it take on the ti-rods to center?
Thanks, Charlie
Charlie, it depends how far off center the wheel is. To start with I would try a half turn on each tierod. Just make sure yur lengthing one side and shortening the other the same amount. After I/2 turn, if yur wheel if farther off center then its obvious youve gone the wrong way. You have a tierod assembly on each side that consists of inner and outer tierod ends coupled by the threaded sleeve that has the clamps with bolts. Loosen the clamp bolts and use a pipe wrench to turn the center sleeve. You dont really need to tighten the clamp bolts up right away. Take a short test drive to see where the wheel is in case you need to adjust some more. Then tighten the clamp bolts when youve got it straight. If you look closely at the threads on the rod ends you should be able to determine which way to turn the sleeve to lengthen or shorten. Just make absoulutly sure you do the oppisite on the other side or yull mess up the toe. Example. If when you hold the wheel straight, and the car goes to the left, you need to lengthen the drivers side, and shorten the passenger side. That will move the wheels back to the right a bit.
I would also like to put my 2 cents in on this. If your old idler arm was "drooping" then your new idler arm should hold the center link up higher which in turn will give your overall toe setting a more positive value by pulling the fronts of the tires closer together. Your steering wheel center would also be affected by this change. Any of the changes in alingment would probably be minimal or insignificant but I would still have it checked out, especially on a car that I use to go fast :yesnod:
Kevin
When the car was initailly aligned the idler arm would have been fine or they would not align it. Now the idle arm has developed play so one end of your drag link is not held as tghtly as before. Replacing the joint is just putting the car back to how it originally was.
Aligning a car never hurts but don't count on a reduced price just to check toe, setup is the same so you will pay full price.
From years of experience just because a car has just come from the alignment shop doesn't mean it is right. Specs have ranges and if one side is on the high side and one on the low side both are within specs but different and that shows in how the car pulls. I finally got tired of this and went into doing it myself and a few hundred dollars worth of tools.
Wait that is how I got into blacksmithing, tired of poor work, started doing my own , then others and before long I was making alot of money doing something I enjoyed.
There are some excellent caster/camber gages on the market plus you need a toe gage, tape measures do not work.
This post sort of deteriated from getting a alignment to doing it yourself. :)
Sorry.