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Need some help with this one. Doing the cam swap and I'm trying to determine if the pushrods in my engine are hardened or not. If trhey are, no sense in spending $100 on new hardened ones.
The only identifying marking on them is a printed number: MPR-34B
Trying to think of all who makes pushrods...
Comp, Crane, Edelbrock, Summit, etc....
I know this is a longshot, but does anyone have a clue?
Maybe Melling. check this link. They do list a #34 and a #34H for sbc. maybe the MPR stands for Melling pushrod and the # is the specific application. Hope this helps you track down the answer. You could always contact Melling and see if they can provide better info then the webpage.
Just a note of warning. If you do wind up buying new pushrods make sure you check em all before putting them in. I ordered new from summit Compcams hardened pushrods. Upon inspection before installing them I found two of them bent, and one with the tip welded on off center. I sent em back and got Trickflow pushrods instead.
If trhey are, no sense in spending $100 on new hardened ones.
What do you mean 100 bucks? Comp Cams Hi Energy Pushrods, (p/n 7812-16) are hardened and will work with guide plates. And they run $29.99 from Jegs.
Josh
Josh, these CC pushrods you mention are the exact same ones I returned for being defective right out of the new package. Bent and crooked off center welded tips. I dont remember who, but in the past on this forum I have heard others mention they also got these bad pushrods. Its a wonder how many others got them too and just put them in thinking they were new so they should be good. I almost did, but when I opened the package one of them fell out and began to roll across the table. Thats when I saw it wobbling. Further inspection of the others found two more bad ones. I was pretty shocked. I have many other CC valve train components and they are working well and im satisfied with them, but I wouldnt touch these pushrods with a ten foot pole.
Well, looks like a moot point. I can't use guideplates with my heads.
Put the guide plates on, put a pushrod in and it wouldn't line up with the lifter. The hole in the head has pretty much the same clearance as the guideplate (kinda like a built-in guideplate). (World S/R heads)
So I took the guide plates off, put the old pushrods back in and that's how I'm running. The pushrods are polished but not at all worn where they go through the heads, so that's good enough for me. They've been in there for at least 20,000 miles without wear.