Hi beam problem..
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 1
From: Sodertalje/Sweden
Hi beam problem..
I noticed last night that when i`m driving with the hibeam on and after a while (4-5 min) the light starts to flicker and goes completly black.I have to shift to lowbeam and all is good.When i change back to Hi its all normal,for a couple of minutes and its start to flicker...What gives? :crazy: :cheers:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,804
Likes: 4
From: Standing still with all my might Texas
Cruise-In X Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09-'11
Re: Hi beam problem.. (BB wowbagger)
Check the contacts in the plugs that connect to the sealed beams. They are probably dirty, corroded, loose, or like mine were a combination of all of the above :cry .
If you don't find anything there take a close look at the grounds for the headlights, on my 73 I think there are at least 3 of them; one centered between the headlights, and one on each side of the radiator support.
Another place I found dirty/corroded connections on mine was in the block connector at the back of the fuse box.
The high beams have a higher amperage load than the low beams, so a bad connection in the circuit will be more likely to show up with the high beams.
If you don't find anything there take a close look at the grounds for the headlights, on my 73 I think there are at least 3 of them; one centered between the headlights, and one on each side of the radiator support.
Another place I found dirty/corroded connections on mine was in the block connector at the back of the fuse box.
The high beams have a higher amperage load than the low beams, so a bad connection in the circuit will be more likely to show up with the high beams.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 1
From: Sodertalje/Sweden
Re: Hi beam problem.. (Kevin_73)
I talked to a friend of mine,and he said to check the powerratings on the High beams(I have H4 lamps).Apparently theres some kind of Bimetall in the lamp switch that works like a "fuse".If theres to much power going through the switch,the Bimetall warms up and cuts the power.After it cools down its good to go again.Does this seem right? :confused: :cheers:
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 239
Likes: 5
From: Rochester NY
Re: Hi beam problem.. (BB wowbagger)
That's correct, you could be drawing more power/current than the original setup, what you are talking about is a circuit breaker it works just like you described, not sure if it is located on the hedlight switch or on the fuse pannel.
Ulf
Ulf
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
From: Montreal QC
Re: Hi beam problem.. (BB wowbagger)
I hjad same problem with my car and H4 lights... The bi-metal strip is in light switch, but it wasn't the problem with me. My problem was in the foor switch (low beam / hi beam switch), foot switch got overheated because of the extra current coming from the H4's and it melted inside... It melt also the connector which is leading to foot switch... Check that first before tearing down the whole dash... I managed to fix the foot switch, but I have to buy new one, the fix is only for temporarly use. I'm thinking to change the lights working with relays, just like in new cars. I think it's not good idea to have the "big current" running through all light switches... With relays you can have "small current" in cabin and "big current" in engine compartment, makes life a bit safer too.
Now I'm not using my high beams at all, unless I just hook off the inner lights totally just to make current smaller. Hope this helps! :seeya
Now I'm not using my high beams at all, unless I just hook off the inner lights totally just to make current smaller. Hope this helps! :seeya
