Rear Trailing arm Help
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: Cedarburg WI
Rear Trailing arm Help
Thank you everyone for your responses, Sounds like I just need to
get dirty and hope for the best. It's great to have people like you
willing to share your experiences on this forum. Par1969
Broke the rear spring in my 69 Roadster today and after jacking up the car and removing the left rear tire I noticed that my hub assembly has alot of wabble to it. I assume this means my bearing are shot and need to be replaced. My question is can new bearing be installed with the trailing are on the car? Any suggestions on how to remove a stuborn halft shaft and u-joints? If the trailing arm has to come off any suggestions there(the front nut and bolt assembly has undercoat on it and the bolt is very hard to reach)? Any ideas would be greatly appriciated. Thanks, par1969
[Modified by par1969, 12:48 AM 5/28/2003]
get dirty and hope for the best. It's great to have people like you
willing to share your experiences on this forum. Par1969
Broke the rear spring in my 69 Roadster today and after jacking up the car and removing the left rear tire I noticed that my hub assembly has alot of wabble to it. I assume this means my bearing are shot and need to be replaced. My question is can new bearing be installed with the trailing are on the car? Any suggestions on how to remove a stuborn halft shaft and u-joints? If the trailing arm has to come off any suggestions there(the front nut and bolt assembly has undercoat on it and the bolt is very hard to reach)? Any ideas would be greatly appriciated. Thanks, par1969
[Modified by par1969, 12:48 AM 5/28/2003]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Re: Rear Trailing arm Help (par1969)
You can take the hub assembly out and leave the T/A on the car. Chances are though the T/A bushings are also pretty much gone or on their way if your rear wheel bearings are shot. If you are gonna go that far, might as well go all the way and get it over with.
While you're in there, I'd be checking the brake lines, calipers, pads and rotors, strut rod bushings, and differential mount.
By stubborn half-shaft do you mean the outer u-joint? I'll assume you removed the french clips (tabs bent over the nuts). Ussually, at the worst, a pretty good size 1/2" wratchet with a long handle should more then do it when stuck.
The T/A bolts can sometimes be a real pain. If you get a good size open end wrench on each side of it, you will hopefully be able to break it loose and work it out. If not, many have to get out the ol' sawzall and get the bolt. You'll want to replace it with stainless steel bolts and shims anyway.
While you're in there, I'd be checking the brake lines, calipers, pads and rotors, strut rod bushings, and differential mount.
By stubborn half-shaft do you mean the outer u-joint? I'll assume you removed the french clips (tabs bent over the nuts). Ussually, at the worst, a pretty good size 1/2" wratchet with a long handle should more then do it when stuck.
The T/A bolts can sometimes be a real pain. If you get a good size open end wrench on each side of it, you will hopefully be able to break it loose and work it out. If not, many have to get out the ol' sawzall and get the bolt. You'll want to replace it with stainless steel bolts and shims anyway.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,135
Likes: 3,939
From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Rear Trailing arm Help (78Vette-SA)
As Joe said, you should give everything a good look in the rear suspension. The spindle can be removed from the arm but is the arm good to begin with? They do rust out so give them a good look too.
I noticed you're from Cedarburg, my brother in law lives there with his 63 swc. I didn't know there were any other vettes there?
Good luck,
Gary
I noticed you're from Cedarburg, my brother in law lives there with his 63 swc. I didn't know there were any other vettes there?
Good luck,
Gary
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: Cedarburg WI
Re: Rear Trailing arm Help (par1969)
Thank for the help, your both right I should replace the trailing arm, its just that I don't see and easy way to remove that forward bolt, but as long as I'm there I might as well freshen everything up right away. gtr1999 does your brother-in-law get his car out much? Cedarburg is only 10000 people so a car like that would be hard to miss. Thanks again.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,135
Likes: 3,939
From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Rear Trailing arm Help (par1969)
I know he just had the car finished-complete body off but not NCRS. This car has a new ZZ4 motor,stinger hood, and sidepipes.He won with it at the Chicgo show last Fall.
The front bolt is the hardest part of the rear bearing/ t arm job. Mostly likely it's rust frozen. I used a sawzall and torch to get mine out last year. On the other hand the bolts in my 72 slid right out no problems.
Let me know if I can help.
good luck,
gary
The front bolt is the hardest part of the rear bearing/ t arm job. Mostly likely it's rust frozen. I used a sawzall and torch to get mine out last year. On the other hand the bolts in my 72 slid right out no problems.
Let me know if I can help.
good luck,
gary
Racer
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 422
Likes: 3
From: Oxford MI
Re: Rear Trailing arm Help (par1969)
I thnk you are correct, there is no easy way to remove/replace the front bolts. I just finished doing mine and it was painfull. I used a sawsall to cut the bolts to remove the arms and a lot of time and patience to replace them. Good luck
Pro
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 1
From: Valparaiso IN
Re: Rear Trailing arm Help (par1969)
I just finished this 'project' on my '71. If that front TA bolt is rusted, try to get the shims out first. Once the shims are out, you will have a little more 'wiggle' room to work on the inside. Soak it in PB Blaster or Yield. Mine came out after soaking. :smash: :smash: :crazy:
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 6
From: lancaster ma
Re: Rear Trailing arm Help (par1969)
Use long saws all blades and remove the shims first if you can. It is a lot easier if you are cutting only the bolt. How are the emergency brakes? Every peice of mine including the cable were rusted solid. Removing the shock mounts can be another difficult task. I ended up removing the arm with the strut attached. It took striking that shock mount with the back of an axe to break it loose. When replacing the TA bolts I made sure the hole was clean and taped the bolt to a screwdriver to fish it into the hole. :smash: :smash:
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: Burlington Ontario
Re: Rear Trailing arm Help (par1969)
Par1969:
Just been through this with my car, you will have to cut the bolt out. I found out that they rust solid in the trailing arm bushing (sleeve) and not usually the frame. Easiest way is try to remove some of the shims, use a hammer and a chisel to knock the shims loose then pry them out with a crow bar. With the shims out you can cut the bolt easy. I ordered new bolt kit and shim kit plus what ever you use for the bushings (my were poly)
Good Luck
Jeff :yesnod:
Just been through this with my car, you will have to cut the bolt out. I found out that they rust solid in the trailing arm bushing (sleeve) and not usually the frame. Easiest way is try to remove some of the shims, use a hammer and a chisel to knock the shims loose then pry them out with a crow bar. With the shims out you can cut the bolt easy. I ordered new bolt kit and shim kit plus what ever you use for the bushings (my were poly)
Good Luck
Jeff :yesnod:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Re: Rear Trailing arm Help (Jeffski)
As BB2B noted... all shims are not slotted. There are two different designs. One design has a hole in one end, and a slot in the other. The other design has a hole in each end. The non-slotted shims cannot be removed until the bolt is first removed. So... don't assume you can remove the shims first to make the job easier. In the case of non-slotted shims, it's required to cut through the shims to get to the bolt... this can make the job substantially more difficult. Also, this is assuming the bolt is rusted and cannot be tapped out. Occasionally the bolt just slides right out. This would be time to celebrate.
You can purchase stainless steel bolt, nut, small cotter pin, large cotter pin and alignment shims from various vendors. The shims are selected to adjust rear toe-in/toe-out. Once you disturb the mess, you usually (but not always) have to get a rear end alignment.
Even if you measure each shim and replace it correctly, the rust and frame flex etc influences the final result.
Tom
You can purchase stainless steel bolt, nut, small cotter pin, large cotter pin and alignment shims from various vendors. The shims are selected to adjust rear toe-in/toe-out. Once you disturb the mess, you usually (but not always) have to get a rear end alignment.
Even if you measure each shim and replace it correctly, the rust and frame flex etc influences the final result.
Tom
