Rear end work
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Pennsburg PA
Rear end work
Soo I start off this past weekend with the wild idea of dropping the rear in my 70. Yikes!
Before I proceed with the rear, is there a chance it could be a wheel bearing? I get a groaning sound at low speed that is more prevalent when cornering than when going straight.
Please...Please...Please tell me it's a wheel bearing.
Thinking positively, I started to disassemble the Passenger side axel shaft in preparation for a bearing change. Axle came out fine, but I'm stuck on the spindle nut. Any pointers to removing the nut without damaging the spindle?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
:flag
Before I proceed with the rear, is there a chance it could be a wheel bearing? I get a groaning sound at low speed that is more prevalent when cornering than when going straight.
Please...Please...Please tell me it's a wheel bearing.
Thinking positively, I started to disassemble the Passenger side axel shaft in preparation for a bearing change. Axle came out fine, but I'm stuck on the spindle nut. Any pointers to removing the nut without damaging the spindle?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
:flag
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 0
From: Reno NV
St. Jude Donor '08
Re: Rear end work (robs70vette)
For the spindle nut, find the biggest Impact you can get.....If there is rust it takes a LOT of torque to take them off. GL on the rebuild. :)
David :cheers:
David :cheers:
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,135
Likes: 3,939
From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Rear end work (robs70vette)
The spindle nut is torqued to 100 ft/lbs. You can use a screw drive or bar in the rotor to brace it against the frame then break it loose. How does it feel when spining it? if it's smooth and you don't have movement in/out they might be ok. If you crack the nut loose then decide to leave them alone be sure to retorque it to 100 ft/lbs or your end play will increase. With the 1/2 shaft out how much travel is in the rear end yoke? over an 1/16 is worn.
Check it out before removing things.
Gary
Check it out before removing things.
Gary
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 3
From: Deltona (son of Deland and DAYTONA) FL
Re: Rear end work (robs70vette)
I hate to suggest this now, but have you changed the differential fluid and added the GM limited slip posi additive? There are archives full of posts on this subject. The posi-clutches grab and make terrible noises around turns without it.
The remedy seems to be ( I tried it myself and it works). Suck out old fluid (unless you have installed a drain plug kit). Get 2 bottles of 80W-90 GL5 gear oil AND a bottle of GM limited slip differential additive. Mix the additive in with the first bottle. Add all fluid until the level is even with the fill plug on the side. Go for a ride and do low speed figure 8's in a parking lot and the noise should stop.
The remedy seems to be ( I tried it myself and it works). Suck out old fluid (unless you have installed a drain plug kit). Get 2 bottles of 80W-90 GL5 gear oil AND a bottle of GM limited slip differential additive. Mix the additive in with the first bottle. Add all fluid until the level is even with the fill plug on the side. Go for a ride and do low speed figure 8's in a parking lot and the noise should stop.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Pennsburg PA
Re: Rear end work (robs70vette)
There is a couple thousands of an inch less than 1/16" endplay on my differential yoke. Does that mean I'm on the verge of a rebuild? Given that I'm currently experiencing noise, I think I'm heading down that path anyway.
Trying to think possitive, I do have play in the wheel bearing and I'm hoping that is the source of my groan. Any thoughts?
:flag
Trying to think possitive, I do have play in the wheel bearing and I'm hoping that is the source of my groan. Any thoughts?
:flag
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,135
Likes: 3,939
From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Rear end work (robs70vette)
1/16 is .0625" They have wear on them but they are not going to be the cause of what you're hearing I believe. I wouldn't drop the rearend out just yet for the yokes. The end of the yoke is .187" from the snap ring groove so you have some life in them. If you were going to replace seals or do other work to the differential then I would replace the yokes too. Some of the later 70's yokes had hardening issues I was told so they would wear quickly once past the case hardening,whic is around .030". If the yokes were hitting the rear end housing from movement you should see some marks on the housing. Again, I don't think that's the case with appr .060" wear. How much play in the bearings and how are you checking them? You have to be sure you're seeing/feeling movement in the bearigns and not the whole t arm flexing at the bushing. If you're positive the play is in the bearings alone then they probably have too much end play. It's best to use a dial indicator to be sure. Is it possibel the noise is the posi clutches chattering around corners? Changing the fluid and using the GM additive and oil may be the only thing you need?
Good luck and keepme posted on what you find
:thumbs:
gary
Good luck and keepme posted on what you find
:thumbs:
gary
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 2
From: Beaverton, OR
Re: Rear end work (robs70vette)
Soo I start off this past weekend with the wild idea of dropping the rear in my 70. Yikes!
Before I proceed with the rear, is there a chance it could be a wheel bearing? I get a groaning sound at low speed that is more prevalent when cornering than when going straight.
Please...Please...Please tell me it's a wheel bearing.
Before I proceed with the rear, is there a chance it could be a wheel bearing? I get a groaning sound at low speed that is more prevalent when cornering than when going straight.
Please...Please...Please tell me it's a wheel bearing.
