Hi there!

I kept thinking and thinking and finally decided to put the original Numbers matching 427 in storage and install a slightly modded 454. I got block, heads and crank. Now it's off to machining and then I'll start putting this thing together. Which made me think: Is there a way I can use a HEI dist?
What happens to my tach-drive?

Thanks :seeya

Stefan


[Modified by Stefan69, 2:45 PM 6/4/2003]

 

The best upgrade you can do on an engine is the GM HEI unit, They are cheap and parts everywhere. Back to you question. I have done this to many gm engines over the years. You have 2-cheap options 1) install a small electronic tach on your steering colume ( $20 to $100), 2) remove your tach and install a 75 or latter factory tach in its place or you can opt for the 3rd option which is the most expensive buy an after market HEI unit with a tach drive ( $350 to $500) I went with the 1st option

 

I bought a MSD ProBillet one for about $300, has tach drive and is plug and play with a MSD box.

 

I switched to HEI and then sent my tach to clocks by roger "corvetteclocks" on the web and had it converted over to an electronic tach , works like charm

 

I went through this about a year ago. I bought a tach from a 75 and installed the face from the 69. I would not advise this, because you have to drill out the mounting holes. Also, the divisions aren't exactly right on the face for the electric tach. You also have to buy or make a tach filter. The other problem with swapping faces, is that the needles love to break. If you don't swap the faces, the numbers won't match your speedo. If I were to do it again, I would buy an MSD setup, or spend the money on the tach drive HEI. When you realize what a pain it is to pull the dash out, redo the face, make a filter, and put it all together again, the money doesn't sound so bad. I would get rid of the points though. I have been very happy with the HEI.




[Modified by bb69, 4:44 PM 6/4/2003]

 

How much did it cost to have your tach converted to electronic? I might be interested in this. I sent for the new crossgear and installed it in my distributor, the tach worked kindof if you didn't mind not knowing what rpm you were really at as it just waved over about a 800-1000 rpm range at any given time, and within a week it stopped working completely again. I now have an HEI, and am pondering the tach question.

 

I'm lost in all the parts I've ordered for this car , looking back I now see that I actually purchased a converted tach from roger ~165 I think it's a little higher to have yours converted ~225


[Modified by Todbo, 5:41 PM 6/4/2003]

 

I went with the Proform 50000 Volt HEI for $159... It's much better than the stock GM unit and cheaper...
You also would have to replace your tachometer with a electric one... Used 75 - 77 tachometers (electronic and perfect fit) are around $75....

 

Considering that I HATE working on the dash (give me engine, tranny or suspension any day over interior) I guess that the MSD HEI with tach-drive unit is the way to go for me.
HOWEVER: If I look at the MSD equipment they also have those very very :cool: Crank-triggers. I know you don't need them if you don't build an all-out-*****-to-the-wall race car... But just thinking out loud- what would it take to make the stock tach work with that?
Can I just leave my stock-dist in there and disconnect everything?

Thanks!:cheers:

Stefan

 

speaking of how good the HEI units are, heres a testiment to that fact. This link below it to a company that makes HEI units for different types of vehicle brands including GM , ford, mopar, amc, toyota, volkswagon and more. http://www.performancedistributors.com/index.html.

For my dist upgrade im using my stock points dist with tack drive and I have it converted to electronic with petronixII and 50,000 volt canister coil. its served me well and the total conversion including coil cost about$150

 

There is a place in California that will convert your tach drive distributor to HEI for about $175.00.
Dave Ray
(562) 699-6949
(562) 695-9199 Fax
sparkman451@earthlink.net

Dave's Small-Body HEIs
11605 Waddell Street
Whittier, California 90606 http://www.DavesSmallBodyHEIs.com/

 

Yes you can use your stock distributor with a Msd crank trigger. With a crank trigger system the distributor is only used to route the spark through the rotor and cap. Timing is done at the crank. It is an excellent system and I use it on all my top engines. The problem with using it on the street is that there is no mechanical advance to it so if you set your timing at 34° it is always at 34° even when your are cranking the motor over to start it. Msd does make some retard boxes to overcome this but it is something you would have to add to the system.

 

Pete's note above is of course totally correct, but I might add, IF you are running DPFI, and IMO you should with closed loop operation and overdrive, that way you get both power and some semblance of fuel economy...meaning less wear and tear on the engine, and of course fewer stopd between gas stations....helpful, that last one.....

IMO, yeh, I hear you about hating freaking DASH boards,.#*%&%^)@&*!@&%@@@@ myself on them....BUT, you gotta consider the car is ~30 years old, so it's time to grin and bear it.....take the damn thing apart, and do it all correctly ONE time hopefully, tach, ohaul speedo head, redo lightbulbs, might make a harness connector so you can plug the bulbs in while it on the bench then have just ONE plug for all the lights in the dash panel....for future use...
same with center gauges console.....

course, then again, 2 winters ago on my '72 there...I just redid the entire wiring for engine and interior....tore the harnesses apart and found all sorts of terror in there, some from the factory, but splices even I did not existed...definately NON factory....I dunno, I just feel better about my own freaking soldered and insulated wiring, no crimp connections everything soldered, even the plugs....like the military would do, not necessarily their expensive grenade proof connecters, but using say Radio Shak 'MOLEX' style white connectors....which are great for LO current crap, like signals, small loads and light bulbs.....nothing like power windows, etc that have decent currents involved....those I all hard wire....

GENE

 

mrvette makes great point. I took the oppurtunity to run all the dash lights through two connectors, one for the tach and one for the speedo. It makes dash installation much easier. I was able to bench test all the lights as well. This is definitly something worth looking into.

 

Mid america has one for 539 bucks. I want to do the same thing.