406 questions
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,165
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From: Where are the Smoky Mountain Cruisers? Not Correctly Restored Stingray
406 questions
I'm on a mission for information. I had a post concerning a 383 build. However, I'm now thinking a 406 build might me the way to go to achieve the 500 hp and torque marks. The 406 torque curve looks appealing.
If I pursue a 400 block;
Will I be able to still use my Hookers with sidepipes?
How much more does a 400 block weigh over the 350 block?
Will I need to chance accessory brackets?
Will I be able to use a TKO 5-speed without cutting the cross-member with the Keisler Kit?
What other problems can I run into?
:crazy:
If I pursue a 400 block;
Will I be able to still use my Hookers with sidepipes?
How much more does a 400 block weigh over the 350 block?
Will I need to chance accessory brackets?
Will I be able to use a TKO 5-speed without cutting the cross-member with the Keisler Kit?
What other problems can I run into?
:crazy:
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Ventura CA
Re: 406 questions (74 vert)
Externally, the 350 and 400 blocks are identicall (except for the fist two years of 400s have an extra freeze plug on the side, and casting numbers ofcourse ;) ), and completely interchangeable. The accessory brackets are more a result of heads, whether they have accessory holes like most, or if you use early ones without accessory holes (like old fulie heads or something). And it seems to me that a 400 block would be lighter than a 350 block because of the bigger bores in the same external dimensions, but since 400s are siamese bored, it may be the same. All in all you wouldn't be able to tell a weight difference between the blocks anyway cause it'd be so close. The headers and sidepipes are again a result of the heads used not the block, they should work unless you get some AFR heads with a different exhaust port location or something wierd like that. As far as other problems, I'm told they tend to run hot--but I'm sure it's nothing you couldn't conquer. Hope that helps! (I've always had a twinkle in my eye for the 400)
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
Re: 406 questions (BB73Chris)
Externally, the 350 and 400 blocks are identicall (except for the fist two years of 400s have an extra freeze plug on the side, and casting numbers ofcourse ;) ), and completely interchangeable. The accessory brackets are more a result of heads, whether they have accessory holes like most, or if you use early ones without accessory holes (like old fulie heads or something). And it seems to me that a 400 block would be lighter than a 350 block because of the bigger bores in the same external dimensions, but since 400s are siamese bored, it may be the same. All in all you wouldn't be able to tell a weight difference between the blocks anyway cause it'd be so close. The headers and sidepipes are again a result of the heads used not the block, they should work unless you get some AFR heads with a different exhaust port location or something wierd like that. As far as other problems, I'm told they tend to run hot--but I'm sure it's nothing you couldn't conquer. Hope that helps! (I've always had a twinkle in my eye for the 400)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 99
From: Orrtanna Pa.
Re: 406 questions (74 vert)
Go to my site and read the buildup article I posted.All thaught of a 383 will disappear for sure. I was going to do a 383 myself and the machinist talked me out of it.
BTW The 400 is externally balanced so you will need the correct flywheel and damper,otherwise it's a direct replacement for the 350.(Except drilling the steam holes in the heads.)
[Modified by The Money Pit, 11:10 AM 6/5/2003]
BTW The 400 is externally balanced so you will need the correct flywheel and damper,otherwise it's a direct replacement for the 350.(Except drilling the steam holes in the heads.)
[Modified by The Money Pit, 11:10 AM 6/5/2003]
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Re: 406 questions (The Money Pit)
I am not 100% on this but I think you need to drill holes in the block if you are using a manual trans. There is a flat spot on the block on the left hand side. I am not sure if the holes are there and just need to be tapped or if you need to drill and tap the holes. This is for mounting a clutch bracket or pivot ball. If you have a standard in your car now you will know if you need to do this or not. If the Block is oringinally off a manual car then the holes will already be there. Its not really that big a deal.
[Modified by IRON WILL, 12:26 PM 6/5/2003]
[Modified by IRON WILL, 12:26 PM 6/5/2003]
