It is time for me to de-Bubba the brakes on my 73, and I am trying to decide on the best course of action.
First a short description of the situation;
When I purchased my vette Bubba told me that three of the calipers were stainless steel sleeved (the fact that the drivers side front one leaks and doesn't grab as well as the other 3 tells me that it is the oddball).
I measured the thickness of all 4 rotors this AM and found that both rears are 1.25", but the right front is 0.92" and the left front is 0.95" (as I understand it the minimum limit is 1.215"). :eek:
The rebuilt master cylinder on it is about a year old and should probably be replaced with the other components.
The hoses might be original equipment. :eek:
The parking brake is at the limit of it's adjustment and probably needs to be completely rebuilt with new cables and everything.

From what I have read on this forum it sounds like the O-ring kit from VBP is the best way to go for C-3 brakes so I would like to use them if I can keep the cost down a little.

Now for questions:
If indeed three of my calipers do turn out to be stainless sleeved, would it be possible (or practicle) to simply rebuild them with the O-ring kit ?
What indications should I look for on these calipers that would prevent them from being rebuilt (by me) with the O-ring kits?
If it is possible to install the O-ring kit in my calipers will I need to hone the bores?
Am I correct that my front rotors are .265" under mimimun thickness, or is the minimum thickness for the front rotors less than the for the rears??


I appears that I can save about $200.00 and a lot of hassle with core charges and shipping if I can rebuild the three (suposedly) stainless sleeved calipers that I have and only replace the single iron bore one. I have no problem with doing the work, but I am not sure if the savings are worth the hassle.

Thanks for reading

:cheers:

 

You should be able to tell if the calipers are sleved after taking them apart. The stainless steel sleves do not go all the way to the bottom of the caliper bore. There should be a slight ridge at the bottom. If the calipers are stainless steel sleved you shouldn't have to hone them. Definitly change the rubber brake hoses. Also I would replace the master cylinder with a "New" one. Be sure to bench bleed it before install. Yes replace under size rotors.

 

The point here is do it right and thoroughly right the first time and take heed of the lessons many of have learned over the years!

Rebuild calipers
Do the M/C
Check lines and hoses for leaks
Bleed...bleed...bleed.

 

I agree completely, but my several of my questions still remain.

Is there anything I should be looking for in the calipers that would prevent them from being rebuildable?

Is the minimum allowable thickness of the front rotors the same as the rear rotors (1.215"), or is less?

I am replacing the master cylinder, all of the rubber hoses, and any of the calipers that are not already stainless sleeved. I am trying to determine if there are any other common defects with the calipers that I should be looking for.

 

The only problems I can think of that would prevent you from rebuilding your calipers would be if the piston bores are pitted. If the calipers are SS they shouldn't be pitted. Also check the bleed screws to make sure you can open and close them and that the threads are not screwed up. The minimum thickness (number) of your rotors is cast into them. The thickness for the front and rear are the same 1.215.

If you are going to continue to work on your Corvvette I would suggest that you obtain the chassis service manual covering your year corvette.

 

Quote:

Is there anything I should be looking for in the calipers that would prevent them from being rebuildable?

I am replacing the master cylinder, all of the rubber hoses, and any of the calipers that are not already stainless sleeved. I am trying to determine if there are any other common defects with the calipers that I should be looking for.

Kevin:

I did my 78 about a year ago and rebuilt using O ring pistons. I had done the brakes back in 94 and replaced original with the SS. When I rebuilt in 02, there were some minor ridges and I used a honing stone to remove the ridges. So, you do want to check for any imperfections in the SS calipers.

The calipers are straight forward...do a thorough visual inspection under lots of light. As suggested remove bleed screws and inspect screws as well as their bores.

My mechanic tells me the usual cause of many problems are the hoses...small cracks. While you are replacing hoses, Inspect them to assess the difference. They will feel brittle, stiff firm rather than flexible and soft.

You're on the right track. Oh, you can pick up a 73 used manual on eBay for under $20! I got a 73 for $8.00!

 

Steve,
Thanks for the reply. I didn't think there were many other failure points for these calipers.
Since the front rotors are definitely worn over 1/4" and the rivets are still in place I have a feeling that they might actually be the factory originals :eek: It is simly amazing what I find every time I work on this car :smash:
I will get the 73 service manual too.


Kevin


[Modified by Kevin_73, 10:43 AM 6/8/2003]

 

On my '76, the rear rotors were still riveted on too. Amazed the hellouttame! :smash:

 

Rotors don't usually wear out from just braking. They usually get scored and turned too many times. You should check your new rotors for run out. It is very common to have to turn new rotors.

 

I don't see how your front rotors could be less than 1 inch. Are they worn down to the vanes?? Maybe they were replaced with the wrong ones. If the rivets have been taken out then they probably have been replaced. In any event, you have an extremely dangerous situation on your hands. I would'nt drive the car until you get new front rotors. The pistons on the calipers must be dangerously close to popping out of the bores.

I thought the min thickness front and rear was 1.215. I bought cheepo chineese rotors off of e-bay and they are working fine. about $20 each plus $20 to ship a pair.

Definitely go with the o-ring pistons, they enhance pedal feel and prevent air from getting into the system. If the bores on the stainless steel calipers aren't scored they are fine for reuse. Upgrade any unsleeved calipers because they will leak within 3-4 years even if perfect. DO NOT hone stainless sleeved calipers. They need to be as smooth as possible.





[Modified by turtlevette, 9:08 PM 6/8/2003]