I am getting closer to having the 502 ready to go in and was wondering if I should try to go with a 1/2 inch line as this is a 650 horse motor. Is it possible to run a new line with the body on. The second part of my question is since I need a new sending unit how can I modify it to 1/2 inch line or is there one available for 1/2 inch already. I am open to any ideas here. Thanks, Bill.

 

Bill, I have the same dilema as you. Everything I've been told the stock 3/8 lines are good up to 750-800hp. I do have plenty of 1/2 line so I may do it anyway (plan on bolting a 200hp+ shot of nitrous next year. I do believe you can bend and the lines with the body on. If I run new lines the body is NOT coming off. :D

What fuel pump are you going with?

:cheers:

 

Well there's a couple of ways....how good are you at welding?

The stock sending unit can be modifed with a 1/2" tube bent just like stock and welded into it. Not really hard to do. It could be brazed and hold just fine. Just cut of, drill out old one and make a new one to fit.

Another choice is to just drill tank and put a -8 or -10 Bung fitting in the tank and plug off the stock line. That usually works fine too, except as tank gets low on fuel you run the risk of running out of fuel in corners. If you keep tank above 1/4 tank, it can work fine. There are a few mega hp Vettes here set up that way.

On mine, I added a sump to it. I used a Competition Engineering one from Summit. It works OK, other than it is too "long" for a Vette tank. The width is perfect and fits between the ribs just fine. You just have to modify it some and shorten it to fit. Of course this involves welding but it's not hard. Just make sure tank is purged well! I don't know if you're running a spare tire. I'm not and it is completely hidden from view from the rear since our valance panels are relatively low.

I think it wil take some work to run lines if you want them to look stock. Not sure on a C-3, but on a C-2 they go throught the inside of rear frame section. Pretty tough to do with body in place. I ran -10 line all the way to the front and -8 return on mine. I think you might be able to remove lower rocker panels and run it up in there on the outside of frame and come into engine compartment and keep it pretty hidden.

If there is any chance you might need a new fuel tank for any reason, ck with Zwede (Marcus) here on the Forum. He has a source for some beautiful aluminum tanks that bolt in with sumps, return lines etc. I saw one....VERY nice for a reasonable price!


JIM


[Modified by 427Hotrod, 3:50 PM 6/30/2003]

 

Thanks Cory and Jim. I actually saw that other post , it might even have been yours Cory where Jim you said your 427 and 540 ran the stock 3/8 inch line. Since I am not really going to drag race the car much I guess I will just stay with the 3/8. I am not much of a welder anyway, although working on this car is making me think I can do it all. Right now it is a body on frame on blocks. No tranny, no suspension, no engine. Jim as it turns out from my last e-mail to you my crank was fine so I got some Eagle +.250 rods, the AFR 315 heads and pistons on order to get me to 11 to 1 static. Congrats on your dyno, god I would love a ride in that thing. Thanks again guys.

 

when I put the fuel injection on my 76, I learned the hard, err I mean very hard, uh I mean the really, really hard way that I needed to replace the return line. I ran braided line front to rear, however I could not see where it was going for about 18" in front of the rear tire. It enters and exits the same way the factory line do, but I am worried about what nasty pointy things it may be rubbing against in this blind area.

 

Use the vapor return line on the driver side for your efi return line , believe it is a little larger than the stock return line, might even be 3/8" like the fuel line.


[Modified by Fevre, 4:56 PM 6/30/2003]