Some airhead (Previous owner :reddevil ) cross threaded the line that goes to A/C dryer (I think it comes from the Evaporator core connected to firewall). Any ideas on how to get it connected or what do I need to replace now? Whole core or can something less expensive be replaced? :mad

 

(please wait until January before you want to work on this, it's to F 'ing hot out now)

If it is the line from the evap core, then the entire unit needs to be replaced. I don't know it if would be easier to pull the engine or gut the dash and interior out to get to it.

Hopefully someone has done this before.

 

You told me exactly what I thought I would hear, and dreaded....I just got the whole dash/interior back together. Are you sure it all needs to come out?

That really SUCKS! I am starting to wonder if taking on this A/C project was stupid!

 

Hey, wait a minute now. If the pipe pressure connecting nut is stripped then you can just cut it off, slide a new pressure connecting nut and reflare the end. You will need a tube cutting and flaring tool...I believe they run around $25.00USD and a new nut...about $1.00. It's possible that with the tube cut back that the tube will not be long enough, so you may need to splice on a new piece of tubbing so that it will be long enough to reach the accumulator/dryer. But, you only need to cut the very tip of the tube off by sliding the nut back enough to get in there with something to cut it. If you use the tube cutting tool then you may have to cut it back about 1/2" due to the width of the tool. If you try something else like a saw you may collapse the tube and make it nearly impossible to flare properly and could jeapordize its ability to seal...but I have made it work before with just a really sharp knife and soft long strokes.

Doing the splice thing will be a lot cheaper and easier than removing the evaporator. Though, since I just replaced my accumulator/dryer I can tell you that it won't be easy since there isn't much room to fit a tool, much less your hands. There should be an access plate underneath the accumulator/dryer that can be removed if you need more access.

On another note. If you are talking about the small sized tube then I can tell you that it took me about an hour to get it threaded onto the new accumulator/dryer. It wasn't stripped or crossthreaded...it's just a real PITA because there isn't enough room to get a good firm grip on it. I actually had to thread both my arms up to the tube with a coupld of open end wrenches. One wrench to fit the nut, and another wrench which was smaller so I can apply some pressure to push the nut into the hole while turning it with the wrench that fits the nut. You might want to try this first, unless you can see that the nut is stripped.


[Modified by Rockn-Roll, 12:52 AM 7/3/2003]

 

It is definetely stripped and bad! Do you think a rookie could do the nut replacement and make it seal properly? What kind of knife did you use to cut through the aluminum?

I am so Pi$$ed that someone could do this kind of work to their own car! Where would I go to get the flaring tool and how does it actually work ?
You have atleast given me little hope .......... :hurray:

 

Also - do you have suggestion of where I would find new nut ??

 

I just pulled mine by taking the 4 bolts out of the heaterbox inside and then all the bolts out on the outside. Split the case and you have access to the evap core. I was able to get both halves out of the engine bay to replace the seals that run about $40. Going back in was a bit tough and ended up droping the exhaust manifold on that side to get the two halves back in but it's not really that bad (just took more beer to get back in than out). So if worst comes to worst just replace the evap core. There are some pictues of it here at the bottom of this page www.angelfire.com/al/swhite7/interior.html

YBNormal...drive a vette

 

I found a replacement nut, but the flaring tools I have found are too small. I think I need a special flanger tool for larger pipes.

But what I am wondering is that once the end is cut off (which is done) then the smaller end of pipe is no longer there to be inserted to dryer that also has the o-ring around it. How did you insure a good seal without it??

I am wondering what would be smarter.....buy the flange tool, take a chance and then maybe have to replace the evap core anyway, or just order a new evap core and start working .......

what do you think? Is that a 3/4" flange tool I need ? the smaller pipe end was about a 1/2" and had the o-ring around it!