When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey boys, got the brakes apart and all of that good stuff, putting my rear back together. i read somting somehwere that you sould flush ur system with denatured Alcohol to get all of the dirt out. this is all great but i dont know howto do this. there is tons of sludge in my system, that cant be healthy. what do i do to get it all out befor the caliper go back on? Thanks alot
Marc
I use a pressure bleeder for flushing and filling/bleeding. It works the best and fastest of all the methods. I have seen articles on building one using a nylon [compund] bottle such as used in small industrial garden sprayers.
i dotn hae a pressure bleeder. i know how i can bled the brakes, but not how to flush them, is it the same thing? io dont want to do it what the calipers on, only brake lines.
It would be easier to flush the system with the calipers off especially if you have new calipers. I flushed my system with the calipers on and it took a while to finally blow out all the denatured alchol with an air compressor. I finally finsihed everything off with some DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.
I just did this a little over a month ago.
You can buy a hand operated vacuum pump/brake bleeder at most any auto parts store. The one I bought (I don't remember which brand) has two nipples for attaching the hose to, the one on the front will supply vacuum, and the one on the top is for pressure.
I hooked the hose to the top one, then ran that to the sealed cup (the one that comes with the pump/bleeder that you usually use for catching brake fluid) which was filled with the denatured alcohol, then another hose from the cup to the brake line where it attaches to the master cylinder. With the old rubber hoses attached at the end of each brake line and a container (coffee can works good) you can simply operate the pump which pressurizes the sealed bottle with the alcohol in it and forces the alcohol through the brake lines into the cans at the other end. Do both fronts and both rears seperately.
Keep adding clean alcohol until it comes out clear on the other end (it took one quart to do my entire system), then use some high pressure air from a shop compressor to clear everything out of the lines.
Re-assemble with new components and rubber hoses, add new brake fluid and bleed normally.
If your brake lines are really full of crud, why not just replace them while the system is down anyway? Simple, not that expensive, and guaranteed results.
If your brake lines are really full of crud, why not just replace them while the system is down anyway? Simple, not that expensive, and guaranteed results.
Mine weren't really "full of crud", just old brake fluid. I replaced all of the flexible hoses, but there was nothing wrong with any of the steel brake lines other than having old DOT3 fluid in them.
Since I was planning to use DOT5 fluid I wanted to make sure the lines were as free of the old stuff as possible.
Remove the calipers, put a coffe can or the like under each of the four rubber hoses, pump out all the brake fluid from the master cylinder and replace it with denatured alcohol. Don't pump the alcohol thru the system. Just let it bleed thru via gravity. Keep the master cylinder full (check it twice a day). This process takes a few days, but it does work. It allows the alcohol to remain in the lines longer, thus cleaning them better. If a line doesn't gravity bleed alcohol, you've got enough blockage someplace to cause uneven braking. Now's the time to trace and fix. When satisfied that your cleaned out, allow the alcohol in the master cylinder to gravity drain out. Fill with brake fluid and bleed the hell out of the system. Plan on going thru quit a bit of brake fluid to be sure that all the alcohol is gone.