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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Mallory Unilite distributer
Is this thing any good? It looks like a non points ignition that doesnt require a ignition module. Will it work as well as an HEI distributer? Anybody know anything about them? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3864501&view=1
It has a mechanical tach drive for those of us with a mechanical tach
I've had 2 of them in the past and run into problems with the weight pins moving causing eratic timing. I also run into premature bearing/bushing failure. I found mallory didn't offer good support after buying their product. I still run a form of their distributor but most of it is home made but I use their ignition modual.
From: A high school diploma fixing what a college degree broke TN
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Re: Mallory Unilite distributer (Guru_4_hire)
I ran a Mallory Uni-lite in my 427 for about 2 years with no troubles.However I did hear of quite a few others who did have problems,maybe I was just lucky.I can say that I would not pay twice as much for one as I would a GM HEI,especially if it had the aftermarket upgrades.
I've ran a Unilte on 3 different HP vehicles.... and loved it, with no problems at all. One of the biggest reasons for bushing/bearing failure int he unilite is proper spacing to the cam gear. I always used a thin nylon shim under the distributor, and have yet to have a problem with the Unilite. I run the Mallory Pro coil, and the circuit protector between the Unilite and the power source. It keeps power spikes away from the distributor.
Got one on the BB 67..............works great- never had a problem.
Installed it after the Pertronix burnt up in the stock distributor after 45 minutes run time....
:yesnod: :chevy :chevy :yesnod:
P.S
There's also a tach drive HEI out there with vacuum advance (not a Mallory).
I have a Unilite in my 68 Camaro and for the most part I have been pretty happy with it. My biggest complaint about it is how much work you have to go through to mess with your advance weights and springs. They are burried under at the bottom of the distributor housing and are just a real pain to get at. If I had to make a choice these days by far I would go with the MSD stuff.
Points are just a switching device. There is a small cam that rides on the shaft that mechanically opens and closes the points to fire each cylinder. HEI does the same thing, but is uses electro magents rather than points which will wear out over time. The unilite is the only aftermarket system that uses an optical system. They are all basicly the same - switches
Pros & Cons:
Points - Pros: Simple, easy to troubleshoot & replace, reliable, cheap, also work in low voltage situations (IE loss of an alternator)
Cons: Require periodic adjustment or replacement due to wear. Also, will bounce at higher RPM.
HEI or similar system
Pros: Very reliable as long as rest of ignition is maintained. Modules are inexpensive for and HEI
Cons: Modules can have problems if exposed to too much heat. Pickup coils can be expensive. Needs good pwr supply.
Unilite - Same as HEI except no pickup coil is used. Unilite modules will fail if module has poor ground ($90 - 110 ea)
Points are the contacts that burn and pit, and need to be cleaned and adjusted (gap and dwell) on a regular basis. They also have a nasty tendency toward what is called 'point bounce', which means that they occillate irregularly under high rpm. Corvette supplied the one of first 'transistor' (point-less) distributors in the 67 Big Block. Transistor ignitions were a godsend to us racers back then.
35 years ago, I had to adjust and clean the dual points in the tach- drive injector- drive distributor in my '63 fuelie Vette once every weekend- along with the solid lifters. PITA!
my opinion.
:yesnod: :chevy :chevy :yesnod:
I suppose now I'll hear about how great that points are from 50 guys here..........
Any of them will work good for you. Points are proven if you don't mind messing with them. Most guys like to install an ignition and forget it. With the newer electronic models, you can.
With a good coil & wires, they will put out the same voltage(whatever it takes for the spark to jump to ground) give or take.
HEI's were designed because of the lower compression ratios in the mid 70's. They needed to use a more powerfull coil because of the ever increasing spark plug gap requirement (they need to run bigger gaps because low compression, poor mixture, and leaner carbs causes the fuel/air molclues to be farther apart - and harder to ignite)
With any of the systems, you can add a capacitive dicharge to it. This is the MSD 6A or Crane box most guys are using. A CD will increase power to the coil (400 volts going into the coil rather than 14 volts without it)
Porsche has been using them for years. MSD & Crane have a multiple spark discharge under 3000 rpm. With a CD system, you can light the worst mixture under the worst conditions - well beyond a regular ignition.
(Some guys say you need to fix the mixture problem instead of putting a band-aid on it like an MSD)
They all work good (some like Crane, most MSD) I have the same system I put together almost 10 years ago and no problems so far. (MSD 6T, Mallory Comp 9000 Unilite)
Good wires are important with a high power system. You can easily cook an expensive high performance ignition if it has to force high voltage thru old, bad, or cheap wires.