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I recently installed the 17" unequally spaced 7 blade heavy duty version. I don't hear it at all when driving, even with the hood up and revving the motor, it's not that obvious. I like it. That, and adding the correct rubber seals around the shroud seems to have eliminated my overheating problems. Seems to just hang around 180. My overheating might have had something to do with the 15" fan that was in there, and installed backwards! :smash:
Oh, as already mentioned, they are sharp! It's got warnings about it, and they are correct. I filed the edges a bit to take the 'razor' out of the 'blades'. Worked great!
In direct contrast to you undersized fan, I just measured the "free" fan I have and it is 18" tip-to-tip. Is this too big ?? I'd rather not carve myself up getting it in only to find that it eats my rad. shroud on start-up.
Use only a heavy duty unit like from like Hayden or Flex-a-lite with the 7 offset blades. All of the others the pretty anodized ones don't work. Get the biggest one that will fit in the shroud. Check motor mounts etc. to make sure you don't have so much rock under acceleration that the blades dig into the shroud. Don't trust using the supplied spacer because where the fan ends up depends on which water pump and water pump pulley you are using (1 belt, 2 belt, 3, etc.). Be prepared to go get different spacers either short or longer. You can find them in 1/4 inch increments. If you are running in desert regions 100 degree temps or plus or at high speeds 130mph plus or you run on the lean side, run an auxillary electric.
The clutch fans are great on unmodified cars. When turning in the 6200 to 8200 region you will lose more of these then you would care to buy. Clutch Fans don't like high rpms.
Also check moroso restrictors to keep the water in the radiator just a little longer. Run a plate on the impeller of the water pump. I run just radiator fluid in my aluminum block with no water. Therefore it wouldn't run as cool as with a 50/50 mixture but I like the corrosion protection because it isn't a daily driver. My temperatures with 535hp all aluminum block/heads runs between 180 and 210. I also run gilmer belts on underdriven clogs 30% so I have the extra 30% margin slowing the water pump so at higher rpms the water pump is running with the 30% at a reasonable speed comparable to a non-under driven system turning say 6000rpms. The underdriven pulleys had a drastic decrease in operating temperatures.
My car is being set up to handle everything from grocery getting to the Silver State 200mph runs (I have hit 193mph on the freeway to date) but haven't gotten the car to Nevada yet unfortunately.
76Frank..... I noticed your fan is up inside the shroud. How hard is it to get to the bolts for mounting and removing? Seems like I am always taking off my clutch fan to do something else. On a clutch fan the nuts are on the engine side, therefore very easy to take off.
Well, it is not the easiest task, but cake compared to replacing the radiator and support (That's why I replaced the water pump and all belts while I had them out). I think if I would have had an extra hand to hold the fan in place while I started the bolts, it would not have been too bad. The trick is to wear long sleeves and gloves to keep the fan from slicing you up (or round the edges before you install the fan).