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Head Re-Torque Question......

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Old Sep 2, 2003 | 10:02 AM
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From: Bogart GA
Default Head Re-Torque Question......

I installed a set of Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads and have been running them for about 6 months. I used FelPro Perma-Torque/Blue copper wire ring gaskets. Should the heads be re-torqued? If so, should I back off on each bolt first then bring it to proper torque? I have found that it takes more torque just to overcome the frictional forces than the spec'd torque.
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Old Sep 2, 2003 | 10:16 AM
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Default Re: Head Re-Torque Question...... (KJL)

Not sure about using with aluminum heads,but with cast iron I was told by Fel-Pro to torque them and then "cold" re-torque them about 20 minutes later. That's all that was required.
Gary
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Old Sep 2, 2003 | 11:27 AM
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Default Re: Head Re-Torque Question...... (KJL)

I Re-torque my aluminum heads after a few heat cycles and then never touch them again.

I just set my click type wrench to what ever the value is and tighten the ones that are out. I would not loosen and reset. You also have to worry about breaking the threads seal to the water jacket. That's why I do it early on in a motors life before the thread sealer sets up. I'm also a firm believer in using studs instead of bolts.


[Modified by gkull, 10:27 AM 9/2/2003]
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Old Sep 2, 2003 | 11:35 AM
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Default Re: Head Re-Torque Question...... (gkull)

Thanks for the reply. Studs are def better but is it possible to get the heads on with block in car using studs?
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Old Sep 2, 2003 | 12:07 PM
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Default Re: Head Re-Torque Question...... (KJL)

Yes, I had to pull my heads this February. It's only tight near the Brake can. I ended up pulling the whole motor anyway when I found out what was wrong.

If your going to do studs in the future have the machine shop blue print the block. So at the studs are in perfect alignment. I made the mistake years ago of studding a block and then you couldn't even put on the heads because the studs were leaning every which way.
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