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Well,the bottom is a 2 bolt main with ARP bolts,cast crank,3/8 rods with ARPs(thinking of buying Eagle or Scat rods) and TRW 2349 slugs..I really like the look of the Fogger systems :skep: :cheers: :cheers:
The TRW's are forged, right? What about the connecting rods (when you say ARP's, I'm assuming you mean it has ARP fasteners on it). If the con rods are just reconditioned stock and the crank is a likewise setup, you probably don't want to run over 100HP shot. If the crank is old, the fatigue life of the metal is unkown, and you don't want to push it. If you had newer/forged reciprocating components, I'd say go for the fogger. You can always install the fogger and just put very small jets in it :D
Well,the bottom is a 2 bolt main with ARP bolts,cast crank,3/8 rods with ARPs(thinking of buying Eagle or Scat rods) and TRW 2349 slugs..I really like the look of the Fogger systems :skep: :cheers: :cheers:
You should be fine with your bottom end. The Foggers are nice setups, but a little more touchy to tune (this coming from a friend who runs a fogger on his racecar). He was telling me the more cubic inches you have the more hp shot you need to feel the difference. For instance a 150hp shot on a SB really cooks, but a 150hp shot on a BB feels like a 100hp shot. So you would need a 200hp shot to for it to "feel the same".
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Re: N2O shot level?.. (Corey 68)
Rpm kills motors not boost (at least a 100 shot ) I have run a 100 shot through my Fogger on a 454. .019 fuel and .019 NOS jets at 6 lbs flowing pressure. A 100 shot on your motor would be no problem, before you run it learn a little about NOS. You can definitley feel a 100 shot on a 454