TedH

My understanding of the procedure to replace the front trailing arm bushings is that the trailing arms have to be fully removed from the car, placed in a press and the old bushings removed/new bushings installed. What I don't know, is the amount of hardware that I must remove from them.

Points where I need to disconnect from the rear suspension/diff/brakes: leaf spring, strut rods, half shafts, shock mount, brake lines, parking brake.

What is the correct procedure for loosening and removing the trailing arm bolts that have spent their entire life up inside that front recessed area where the trailing arms attach to the frame/body?


[Modified by TedH, 4:11 PM 9/22/2003]

mayberg

I think you have it scoped out pretty well. Go ahead and start soaking the bolt, castle nut, and shims inside the pocket with some Rust Breaker or <insert favorite penetrant here>.

With the body on the car, the through-bolt for the trailing arm is a major PITA. On mine, I didn't have trouble removing the cotter pin or the castle nut. And I could get the bolt to turn. I used a 3 inch pipe clamp bolt, with one end shorter than the other, to pound on the tip of the through bolt to get it out. If you can get it to move, you should be able to get it out, and it may not be easy.

With the bolt out, the trailing arm may not exactly fall right out. The shims are probably rust-siezed to the trailing arms, and them to the pocket. All the more reason to soak the area in the penetrant. With the bolt out and a little persuasion, you might be able to crank the trailing arm out. I used a socket in the pocket to provide some leverage to get the arm out from the shims.

You might also try removing some shims before working on the bolt.

But soak it for several days with the Rust Breaker first.

As for the bushing, you might be able to drill out the center sleeve. That should make disassembly easier and negate the need to a press.

GDaina

Biggest pain if the trailing arm bolts are rusted, can squirt all you want, but won't do any good....best bet is to get the ol' sawzall out and give it a good work out...but use a slow speed and lots of oil as the bolts are grade 8.


[Modified by GDaina, 6:19 PM 9/22/2003]

Paul L

I didn't want to say that. About three hours and the same number of blades per side :( .

jdcrvt

I couldn't get mine out by unbolting them. I reverted to the good old sawzall method. I bought brandy new trailing arms complete with rotors, SS parking brakes etc. The whole enchilada from Fastvette.com. They are manufactured by Ikerds and are licesned by G.M. , or so I am told. I've also purchased from VBP poly bushings which come with a little flaring tool. So I will be drilling out the brandy new rubber buushings and replacing them with poly. Just one note of caution, which I didn't think to do. Take a picture or make a note of the shims on either side of the TA before you remove them. This will make getting things lined up a lot easier when you reasemmble. i'll be looking fo some advice myself when i pout mine in. i have't a cluye how many on either side should go back in. Don't even know where to begin. :crazy:

jpatrick636

Just get the wheel as square to the fronts as you can and go directly to a good alignment shop. You should also go to VB&P web site and download their alignment specs. They are the best.