Squeeling noise from right rear
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Smithton il
Squeeling noise from right rear
I noticed last night when driving the '80, a squeeling noise coming from the right rear of the car. Sounded like a tire turning on a clean garage floor. I pulled over and looked but could find nothing wrong. The tire and wheel was not hot. So I got back in the car and drove home and did not notice the noise. This morning when driving to work I got about 20 miles into the trip and it started doing it again. You can hear it from 1 mph to about 20 mph. When the car stops the noise does to. I got to work and checked it and could not find anything wrong again. What could be causeing this noise? Rear bearing maybe?
J
J
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Smithton il
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
Somebody has to have an opinion on this. I was just thinking that I put the parking brake on several days ago. Do you think it is possible that the parking brake did not release all the way and the squeel is coming from the pads? Is there a way to check this?
Thanks
J
Thanks
J
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
Several things could be causing the noise but the 1st ones I'd check would be the brakes and then I'd check the wheel bearings. Sometimes dust will cause a squeal. Also saw a post the other day on the Forum where the emergency brake was the problem. :cheers:
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
Few things I would do.
Jack up the car and remove the wheel on the side you hear the noise from. Checkt he parking cable to see if it's retracted or stuck,have someone pull the handle up while you look at it. You can remove the cable if you have to. If your noise goes away hten the shoes are probably rust seized and dragging. If you still have a noise then check the U-Joints for play and rust. I like to dsconnect the 1/2 shaft from the spindle with the caliper off. This will let rotate the rotor by hand to see how it feels and sounds. There should be any play in the bearings and if it's thebearigns making the noise then there will be some heat buildup in the area. A lot depends on who was working on the car in its life,you may find some interesting things once you start looking.
Good luck,
Gary
Jack up the car and remove the wheel on the side you hear the noise from. Checkt he parking cable to see if it's retracted or stuck,have someone pull the handle up while you look at it. You can remove the cable if you have to. If your noise goes away hten the shoes are probably rust seized and dragging. If you still have a noise then check the U-Joints for play and rust. I like to dsconnect the 1/2 shaft from the spindle with the caliper off. This will let rotate the rotor by hand to see how it feels and sounds. There should be any play in the bearings and if it's thebearigns making the noise then there will be some heat buildup in the area. A lot depends on who was working on the car in its life,you may find some interesting things once you start looking.
Good luck,
Gary
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington IN
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
I'm having the same problem - squeals like a stuck pig, then goes away sometimes. Since I replaced my u-joints a few months ago it leads me to believe the bearings are going bad. I've been reading the archives about bearing replacement...sounds like a tough job to get right. And, I thought rebuilding the engine was going to be the worst thing to do. :mad
:lurk:
:lurk:
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Sweetwater TN
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (marshrat99)
Also saw a post the other day on the Forum where the emergency brake was the problem. :cheers:
;-*
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
From: Lafayette, Indiana
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
You can hear it from 1 mph to about 20 mph.
(Sorry, I have trouble passing up a chance to be a S.A.) :rolleyes:
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Smithton il
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
Update: When driving home last night it started making the noise. So at 10 mph I engaged the e-brake and the noise got lounder which leads me to beleive that it is in the ebrake assembly somewhere. Is it difficult to change the e-brake pads at the rear wheel. I guess all the springs and stuff should be replaced while I am in there.
J
J
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Smithton il
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
So I think I am going to get a rebuild kit for the parking brakes. I have read that the rear rotors are rivited onto the hubs and that you need to drill or torch them off. My question is do the rivits need to be replaced or do you just assemble without anything in the rivit holes.
J
J
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,770
Likes: 3
From: St Louis MO
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
So I think I am going to get a rebuild kit for the parking brakes. I have read that the rear rotors are rivited onto the hubs and that you need to drill or torch them off. My question is do the rivits need to be replaced or do you just assemble without anything in the rivit holes.
J
J
Brett :thumbs:
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,544
Likes: 448
From: Central Pennsylvania
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
I'd still bet on the bearings going bad. When you apply the e-brake while moving you're putting load on the assembly.
On a previously owned0 '75 I had the same type of squeak from the right rear. Driving home one night the bearing completely froze on the spindle, actually twisting the spindle in half at the mid point. Wheel/tire ended up horizontal in the wheel well and the car riding on the suspension. Fortunately I heard it coming and manged to all but come to a stop when it let loose (thank God!).
Check thy bearings, man!
On a previously owned0 '75 I had the same type of squeak from the right rear. Driving home one night the bearing completely froze on the spindle, actually twisting the spindle in half at the mid point. Wheel/tire ended up horizontal in the wheel well and the car riding on the suspension. Fortunately I heard it coming and manged to all but come to a stop when it let loose (thank God!).
Check thy bearings, man!
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Smithton il
Re: Squeeling noise from right rear (Jmccreary)
Well maybe I should just replace the whole assembly so I know that it is good. This seems like a good price per side. About $575 including all shipping. After reading all the nightmare post about the rear bearing installation I would never attempt it.
REBUILDING YOUR CORE............$249.00 each*
We also stock Repair Exchange Units with a $250.00 core charge deposit.
*Plus Shipping and Handling
Rebuild includes:
Using YOUR CORE:
Disassembly and a confirming phone call on all work.
All parts are cleaned, bead blasted, and painted with epoxy black before assembly.
New front trailing arm bushings are pressed in.
New front and rear bearings / races assembled with new seals.
Bearings are blue printed to exact specifications.
Unit is filled with high-temp synthetic grease (Mobil 1) at assembly.
New stainless steel parking brake kit.
New emergency brake shoes.
New parking brake flange.
New wheel studs.
New dust shield.
REBUILDING YOUR CORE............$249.00 each*
We also stock Repair Exchange Units with a $250.00 core charge deposit.
*Plus Shipping and Handling
Rebuild includes:
Using YOUR CORE:
Disassembly and a confirming phone call on all work.
All parts are cleaned, bead blasted, and painted with epoxy black before assembly.
New front trailing arm bushings are pressed in.
New front and rear bearings / races assembled with new seals.
Bearings are blue printed to exact specifications.
Unit is filled with high-temp synthetic grease (Mobil 1) at assembly.
New stainless steel parking brake kit.
New emergency brake shoes.
New parking brake flange.
New wheel studs.
New dust shield.