Norville, IRS suspensions like alot of springrate when using coilovers. 200# is REALLY light. Our othermustang with IRS started out using a 500# spring and we got alot of wheelhop. we then switched out to a 700# spring and our wheelhop issues were eliminated. Granted the IRS setup in an 03 Cobra is slightly different, the principle is the same. Im usind a 400# spring in the front with a 5way adj strut to get the right ride and control needed.

JB

 

Twin Turbo I will not use the stock upper mount. I looked at it closely 15 minutes ago and it is mounted too far back on the frame and also at an angle. I will reinforce the frame at this point plus center the mount on the frame.
For a lower mount I will weld a bracket unto the swing arm. I will make it a 2 peice deal, one part welded to the swing arm and another part that joins it to the shock and adjustable height on the swing arm. By being 2 peice I can really move the shock in or out and up and down.
I might also have to move the brake line bracket to the top to protect it from the coil accidently hitting it.
Now that the car is away, on stands and wheels off I can start looking, measuring and making brackets to check for fit.
I actually like working on the car as much as driving so my winter began a little yearly.

 

Shark Attack. I am not a fan of heavy springs. I want the car's wheels to move following the road contours not bounce over it. My fronts are 280 pound springs and I really like them. My back leaf is very light, never measured it but I pulled a few short leafs to lighten it up. I will try 200 or 250 at first then go from there.
Wheel hoop is not something I worry too much about right now as I don't do burn outs anymore.

 

Norval, looking forward to see some progress on your car :) You do have a digital camera right? since pics are absolutely mandatory :D

Also, do you know the extenden and compressed lengths of the front shocks? I had mesured mine but forgot to write down the specs :(

 

Twin Turbo I just ordered a really nice digital camera for work :) about $1300 so it should do the job as soon as it comes in.
I don't know the front but ask me the back. I just did all measurements tonight. I need a 5 inch travel shock for the back. Wish I needed a 7 inch but in the room provided 5 inch is all that will fit.
I get my lathe and milling machine next Saturday so it will be a busy weekend next Saturday. I have 6 guys helping to move the lathe, hopefully we will be able to manhandle it into place. It is 7 feet long. The mill weights about 4-5000 pounds so we need heavy equipment but after that i can produce anything at home.

Sorry about the front shocks.

 

HEY, Norval!!!!


TOY TIME!!!!!

:cry :cry :cry :reddevil :reddevil :smash: :smash: :eek: :eek: :D :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

you about the only guy I know who makes his own car, ....is there anything on that 'vette' that's mechanically original???....thought not.....

GENE

 

No prob on the fronts, I'll measure mine, I have them lying around somewhere :)

Man , I have serious tool envy. You just have way too much cool stuff there. I have the same when I look at ram82fire's shop (in pics) he too has mills, drill presses, a bridgeport, sheet metal brakes and who knows what else in there

 

All the tools cost me Twin Turbo and I will never make back the cost of the mill and lathe. I want to continue shoing horses on the side, not machine parts for others.
I bought my shock this morning Pro Shocks, aluminmum, threaded, anodized body 5 inch travel, 250 pound springs to start someplace. $700 with tax.

 

700$ is that for 2 shocks? I really hope that's 700$ CND right? I've seen the bare shocks for around 140$ (threaded anodized Pro Shocks, 7" travel if I'm not mistaking, i think it was stock car products that offered them)

 

Yes that is for 2 pro shocks. Our cars can not handle 7 inch travel. Our compressed length is 10.375 and that is with the rubber compressed and hanging down 15 inches. I would rather have 7 inches of travel but the shock would be too low and might hit the rim.
I will have them by Friday delivered to the door.

 

Stock car products only lists 7 and 9" strokes. Where did you get the 5" ones? Straight from pro shocks?

EDIT,

why can't we use a 7" stroke shock? We can't use a shock with a compressed height longer than 10,375 compressed height since otherwise the shock would bottom out when the suspension is in full bump. Why would a 6" stroke shock not fit? If it was for instance 17" extended and 10" compressed iy would be fine, the shock would not fully extend but that won't matter a whole lot. I think the Konis I have are around 18" extended, will have to measure them to make sure though.


[Modified by Twin_Turbo, 4:05 PM 9/29/2003]

 

Since our shocks hang low enough compressed at 10.375 and the smallest 7 inch extensions shocks I could find are 12 inches compressed I would have my shock hanging 2 inches lower then it is now. Would you really want the shock 2 inches lower? It might hit the rim, it certainly would hang low. Our present shocks are only 5 inch travel and Pro shock makes one at 5 inches.
It perfectly matches the stock shock travel and I will mount it at the same height as stock.
I made templets tonight of what I will cut out tomorrow to weld unto the trailing arm.
My lathe is comming Wednesday night so I am working on preparing for it.

 

ah, yes we're on the same track again :) I thought you relly meant that the limiting factor was the stroke, I already thought that was very strange butnow i udnerstand what you mean and yes, around 10"would be the max. compressed height. I wouldn't want the stock lower either. You're right about the 12,5" (roughly) compressed height w/ a 7" stroke, I couldn't find any smaller ones either. The only way one could use those would be to mount them under an angle but that will bring nothing, the vertical stroke wills till be the same and the shock will be less effective.

 

Note: You are less likely to be kicked about the head by a horse when machining car parts then you are to be kicked when shoing a horse. :jester

Great thread guys... I'm rereading it :yesnod:

 

ZD75blue. Good point but I really like shoing horses on the side. I enjoy the sweet and yes you do work up a sweet when shoing. It takes years to develope the special muscles needed to work on those muscle bound creates. I worked at a 1500 pound clydesdale last night and he could break my leg by just flexing his muscle. Stepping on your foot forget the toes but the money is really good, it gives me a heavy 1 hour workout, most horses belong to girls and they keep you company, the money is good and I ENJOY it.
Machining for myself is ok , I could get caught in the lathe or mill and killed too. You could have the car fall on you or have an accident.
Give me the good smell of horse s?it and I am happy. :) :)

 

:eek:

Stun gun if working with something that big!

I hear ya... Sorry if my sense of humor gets in the way of a decent story :jester

 

hey man, you are messing up this post :jester :cheers: :D ;) ;) :lolg:

 

OH yeah... Heal overs... err Coil overs back on topic from now on out! Hey lemme outa this straight jacket! :jester

 

Twin Turbo I think this post has run it's course. I have ordered the shocks, the springs and the kit to go with the shocks. I also stated what and why I decided on my choice.
I started the brackets big time today and almost have them done. I had to tap 30 7/16 holes for adjustments. Each shock will have 5 1 inch adjustments on the mounting brackets plus the adjustability of the shock nut itself. The brackets also have lots of lightening holes. I won't weld them on for another week or two but the winte is long.
Besides the brackets welded to the trailing arms I will have aluminum brackets going from the welded on bracket to the shock itself. This bracket is bolted to the trailing arm bracket with 3 7/16 bolts. I allows me to raise of lower the shock and depending on how I machine the bracket I can move the shock in or out back or forth for fine tuning.
Just welding a bracket to the trailing arm then putting in a stud leaves no adjustability.
Also a stud should not be used. It puts a bending moment on the bracket it is attached to . I want a U shaped bracket with a bolt going through it to properly support the weight without trying to put a bend in the shock rod.
I will also run the shocks upside down to cut down on unsprung weight.
I was following your post of spindle length and it got sidetracked into rearend toe.
I will certainly do a complete check on toe change before installing the coilovers to see if there is truth that my toe or camber changes with rear end travel. I do have the 6 link suspension and checked camber change when doing that project but will use my front end caster/camber gage this time.

 

Yeah!!! Someone that finally understands the correct way to mount a performance shock, With the body up! Good going Norval!


[Modified by Pete79L82, 7:17 PM 9/30/2003]