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I've decided to go with an aluminum radiator and electric fans to get rid of my stupid, ugly shroud and engine driven fan that saps some HP. I'm looking at Be Cool radiators in a mail order catalog (it's not supported, may I use a proper name?) and would like to know if a universal radiator that is less expensive and is of the correct dimensions is as good in quality as one that is specifically made for a particular car? Simplifying it more: both radiators are of the same dimensions, same material, same cores etc. One of them is actually made for the application and the other isn't; the costs are different.
In reading the previous threads about radiators, it seems that the biggest difference is the location and orientation of the inlet and outlet. The Corvette radiator will fit with stock hoses, the universal may not.
This is on my winter project list.
Do a search on radiators or the type you want to install. Seems the tradeoff for the cost savings is some garage engineering in the hoses, cooling lines (for autos) and brackets to mount to the frame. Several posts I have seen said you need to use flex hose on the bottom and maybe the stock on the top. The other question is the cooling efficiency of the BeCools vs the Griffins that DeWitt sells. Maybe DeWitt can give you some thermal comparisons of the two and be careful with the fans. Not all fans are equal in TRUE cfm pull. Last, make sure the fans are on a temp sensor with a relay to isolate them from your electrical. Good luck.
What does that mean exactly..(isolate them from your electrical)? I am in the process of this change as we speak.. I have the temp sensor... not sure about the relay... also, is there really a need to upgrade the Alternator to a higher AMP output for the extra draw(??) of the electric fan? I have a 1975 with 4 spd. thx :chevy
To isolate it means that the wire supplying the juice to the electric fan is coming from the battery or a suitable wire capable of the current draw. Running off another wire could cause overheating of the the wire, resulting in shorting and/or noise on the radio.
Having a temp sensor and the relay assembly where the battery or alt. power feed the relay that is also fused so the fans are not tied directly to the source voltage. If a fan freezes up it does not short anything out or cook the alt. A cooked fuse or relay is is sure cheaper than electrical system smoked. Good luck.
Can't remember who posted about installing the universal Summit alum. radiator and having the correct angled inlet/outlets welded on. Siad it fit good.
I wired my elec fan to be switched manually on/off and have it wired directly to the fuse block, there is at least one open connection that is tied to the ign, on when on and off when off. There are 2 or 3 on the fuse block , think at least one is marked 'IGN' and one marked 'BAT' (battery, hot all the time) might be a third but I don't recall which type it is.
I have a summit alum rad and twin flex-a-lite fans which are working great for me. I am using a stock upper hose and a heavy duty universal hose on the bottom. The bottom hose rides on the frame/crossmember but it is so thick I am not really worried about rub through, it shows no signs after 2 years of use.
I used these pins for my stereo and tach. I have a third pin, but I don't recall what it's for... maybe it's marked ACC (accessory)??
After looking at Chris's radiator/fan setup this summer, I think that I'm going to go the exact same route. I don't mind doing some fab-ing if the radiator costs 1/3 of the direct-fit ones.
Mine has a blue filler neck which matches my car. One thing you have to buy a fitting to screw into the neck for the over flow tank hose, I did not know this when I ordered so I bought a brass one at Lowes, I think the metal mismatch is causing some problems because it is slightly corroded even with using plumbing wrap. An alum fitting would be better, might call and ask if Summit carries a fitting for it, should really come with it IMHO.
Since I am not using the stock shroud I have no problems with the hose routings but if you plan on using the stock shroud you might have to do some minor alterations to make it work.
The rad Fevre refers to at Summit is made in USA by Northern ... they do not do retail ... same rad is available through speedway motors http://www.speedwaymotors.com for $170 ... sometime with a free cap thrown in. Unlike Griffin, Northern does NOT use epoxy. Unlike Griffin's stamped neck, Northern uses a machined extrusion (billet?). Speedway calls their Northern-made rads their house brand "Tru-Kool."
Alright, so I'll do my homework with these different radiator options.
What I also see when shopping for a cooling system (radiator) is that certain applications are meant to cool for X amount of HP. I won't have anything fancy in my engine bay now but in the future I'll want upwards of 500-600 HP. Should I tackle that cooling system when I cross that particular bridge or should I spend a little more now for a cooling system that's good for 700 HP and not worry about it for a longer amount of time?
1 core vs. 2 core, etc.. In an aluminum radiator for our cars, how many rows are acceptable and what size should the rows be?
Did you just keep the stock alternator or did you upgrade to a larger amp alt.? Is it necessary to upgrade for the use of an electric fan? Thx
Depends on your accessaries. If you got a lot of extra elec stuff like a/c, killer stereo, etc then yes. I decided to get a 100 amp alt in case I ever get rid of the msd box whine and put a killer stereo back in.
Check out the BeCool website and then give them a call. They make a great product and with the Spal fans it does a great job. My BB runs cool all of the time and when the fans come on its not for long. You could spend less but don't you want the best protection for your motor? Mine is making about 475hp and I would not trust any other brand. You will also notice that in many car mags, Hot Rod, CarCraft etc. they build some hot motors for cars and they use BeCool..... For a few more bucks go with the best, you won't be sorry.
Recently replaced the radiator in my 70/454 with an aluminum one from Be Cool. Cost me abot 600.00 but well worth it. Called them with specs, when it came in, dropped it in, attached fan and has made a major difference. Purchased my radiator from Competition Sales Inc. out of Houston.