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Yeah, I know. :rolleyes: But my knees aren't getting any younger, and driving in traffic is getting kind of painful some times. Corvette clutches were made for younger people (and I even have the Centerforce dual friction clutch).
I did a search on the archives for posts about putting an auto (700-R4 OR 200-4R) into a manual car and came up with nothing. I presume people have done this.
Here's what I know I need: radiator and lines, flex plate, transmission, drive shaft, cut out old cross member and get a new one that matches the length of the trans, shifter and linkage, console stuff. I've already got a computer out of a 90 truck and a TBI installed in my car, so lockup control is easy, at least for the 700R4 (don't know if the 1227747 will control a 200-4R or not). I'll need a tailshaft that handles mechanical speedo.
Might be cheaper to get my knees fixed.
Since my car is numbers matching, I'm planning on keeping the manual trans around.
Any words of wisdom before I start?
I have read lots of posts already on the merits of the 700-R4 vs. 200-4R, and I have pretty much decided to get a 700R4 and rebuild it to handle the torque/power of my bigblock.
Oh yeah, 1973 big block, hopped up a bit (maybe 400HP if I'm lucky), TBI fuel injection.
How much would that help? The force to move the clutch is the same, and the clutch pedal movement is the same, it seems that since a hydraulic link is no more efficient than a mechanical linkage (could be wrong here) that the clutch pedal force should be about the same.
Read any Corvette value book. You will lower the value of your Vette by $3,000 or more. Why not just sell it and buy an auto? It would be a shame to lose a manual C-3
I have already done a ton of stuff to my car. It has fuel injection, serpentine belt, tach drive HEI distributor, cruise control, removable rear window, electric windows and locks, 105A alternator, etc. I have kept most, if not all, of the original parts (except the original alternator bracket), and could put it back to stock (or very close) if desired. The only permanent thing with the auto transmission changeover is cutting the cross member.
I really enjoy the four speed, but I was considering putting in a five speed anyway (for the overdrive), and would have to cut the crossmember for that, and an auto is just a much better solution for general drivability. Also, the 700R4's 3.06 first gear sounds kind of nice compared to the 2.52 first on the M21.
John, if you ever decide to go auto, I've got most of the items you'll need (I believe my 79's parts will interchange but haven't looked into that) since I've pulled all of mine to install a manual. Good luck.
The force to move the clutch will not be the same. The slave cylinder will multiply the amount of force you exert on the clutch pedal. I don't know any specific numbers but a mechanic friend of mine changed the linkage from manual to hydraulic on his 1st gen camaro and it made a world of difference. He changed his for the same reason you did because he had to have surgery on his knees. I don't know how applicable it is because he was putting his in a camaro but he said it was a very easy install.
I'll look into the hydraulic clutch, and Stinky, if I go with the automatic, I may take you up on your shifter. I need to see if it is the same or not. Another advantage (maybe disadvantage :) ) to going with the automatic is that my wife could drive the car. She doesn't like and won't drive manuals.
I was on the phone with shefi keisler owner of keisler automotive. I am buying a tremec 6 speed from him. He has been selling the conversion kit for several years, but will be selling a better kit in the near future. He said it will require half the effort of manual linkage. It will be expesive, but all his work is top quality. Should retail for around 450.