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i recently removed the automatic choke as i dont really need it here in florida...
also, it had a habit of staying closed for way too long and i found it agravating having to "kick" the throttle down at the red lights cause it would stay on too long causing it to idle higher than i liked...
well...i removed the ENTIRE choke assembly, wiring, and butterfly...
i cant believe it but it still acts as tho the choke is still there!
idleing high until the engine warms up...WTF!?!
question #2 is when i sit for a bit like at a red light, when i go, it "hogs up" on me and stumbles a bit...
is it running too rich or something?
Signguy it sounds like your fast idle cam, Item 47 on the picture here (second one down from the top) www.angelfire.com/al/swhite7/temp.htmlneeds to be tied so it can't increase the RPM when cold. I have never attemped this on mine because it gets pretty cold up here in northern Alabama. Also after the engine rebuild I went with the stock 98 primary jets (item 43) and 95 jets secondary (item 44) on my edlebrock 1406 per the manual and found they were a little to much. I ended up going back to the 95s for both primary and secondary and that seems about right for my application. Hope this helps some.
thanx Yb...
im just a tad confused...
"tied down"?
how does this thing know if my engine is hot or cold without a choke hooked up?
would it also cause the "stumbling" i descibed?
the stumbling occures when the engine is at operating temp...
i just went out and checked it and i have already removed the idle screw in that part when i removed the choke...wouldnt this cancel out any action by this???
should i still tie it down???
The fast idle gets set when you pump the gas for initial startup. Usually a quick blip of the throttle is enough to release it after the car is started and idling smoothly. On a lot of carbs there is a vacuum actuator that will pull it off the fast idle cam step after the choke opens full up. This might be your problem, the choke linkage is disconnected so it can't disengage it off the fast idle cam.
I have no choke hooked up on my carb either, my carb had a choke that was operated by a bimetal spring in the intake manifold. The ZZ4 has no manifold exhaust crossover, so the their is no place for a bimetal choke spring to be mounted. I just left everything hooked up on the carb and left the linkage dangling, it doesn't seem to effect performance much if any.
Re: two Edlebrock carb questions.... (Smokehouse69)
I would do three things to start.
Turn in your idle adjust screws to bottom out, and then back them out 1 1/2 turns.
Put the accelerator pump linkage on the middle hole.
Use carb cleaner and spray clean everytrhing on the carb.
Then adjust idle with your vacuum gauge and road test.